Traffic Jam

Today is the single day of the year that I've learned to dread during my past three Septembers here in Albania.  The third Monday of the month means the start of the Albanian school year for both public primary and secondary schools and as well as the public universities.  After the first day of school students will get themselves their via bus or walking but on this first day, everyone, regardless of age or their physical distance from school, seems to be chauffeured their in private vehicles.  (Hence the traffic jam).  I know I get spoiled during August when everyone flees the city for the beach and the streets are all but deserted regardless of the time of day.  And then, seemingly overnight, everyone has returned to the streets of Tirana causing the inevitable congestion that turns our less than five minute commute from our house to the Embassy into thirty minutes of sheer hell and frustration.  And this year, despite knowing what was coming, was the worst one yet.

 

It was raining when I woke up this morning.  Dark clouds loomed over the city and rain was coming down in buckets.  Traffic is always bad when it is raining.  In addition to the weather problems, this year we have active road construction going on between our house and the Embassy.  On the best of days this often causes traffic to bottleneck and move at a snail's pace.  I should have suspected how bad the traffic was when our normally punctual nanny (she actually always arrives early) arrived a few minutes late saying that the traffic was bad.  I had seen the line slowly snaking down the road when I had peeked out the window earlier but I had assumed that it was just a momentary blip.  Oh how I wish that was the case.  As we pulled out onto the main road I immediately saw how bad it really was.  Traffic simply wasn't moving in either direction. 

 

Actually, I take that back.  Traffic was flowing down the hill in the far left lane that was under construction. Yes, furgons and Mercedes were dodging the construction equipment that despite the heavy rain, was trying to make progress on the new road.  Slowly, ever so slowly we moved down the hill and after some time we saw a bus heading up the road towards us.  But then it had to stop since it was met head on with yet another car that had decided to bypass our long line of traffic and zip down the other lane.  Perhaps the driver thought he was more important than the rest of us but for whatever reason he decided that he wasn't going to sit at a standstill in the long line of cars.  Unfortunately, this is an all too common occurrence in Tirana and only adds to the traffic problems.  Despite his numerous attempts, no one was willing to let him squeeze into the line ahead of them.  Usually someone caves which only perpetuates the bad behavior.  But with the bus unable to move forward, traffic only continued to idle.  Finally we saw a police officer trudging down the hill with an umbrella. Naively I thought that he might be on his way to give the illegal driver a ticket. But because this is Albania, that wasn't the case. Instead the officer ordered a car to create a break for the wrong doer and allowed him into the cue.  And yes folks, this is partially why we have so many traffic problems.

 

But the commute only got worse since we weren't quite half way to the Embassy at this point.  Remember all of the cars that I had said were driving through the active construction zone?  Well, half of them were realizing they shouldn't go any further and were trying to turn around and head back up the hill.  The other half were trying to squeeze across two oncoming lanes of traffic (that really should have only been one lane) to merge into the line heading down the hill. And this inevitably caused more problems.  At one intersection there were cars trying to simultaneously turn right and left which resulted in no one being able to move in any direction. We were so distracted by this mess, with yet another police officer haphazardly standing in the middle of it all, that we almost missed the ten or so people who spontaneously jumped out of their vehicles and ran to what appeared to be a stalled car. But it wasn't a stalled car; rather the car had driven into an open man hole and its tire was now stuck.  The group of men lifted the car out of the hole before returning to their own vehicles.  And then traffic resumed creeping along as though nothing out of the (Albanian) ordinary had happened.

 

And that is the strange thing; vehicle congestion, road hazards that would be unimaginable in the western world, and a blatant disregard for traffic laws coupled with an inability by the police to enforce them are every day occurrences in Albania.  It is not unusual to see vehicles driving in the wrong direction, running red lights, turing left from the right lane and vice versa or speeding by the hapless police officers who attempt to flag them down.  Some days, like today, are simply worse than others.  Hopefully tomorrow will be better.

Lovin' It (Or Not)

"So tell me you love it there."  This is what I was recently asked by the spouse of the Naval Officer considering Glenn's position at this post.  (A.K.A. a future DATT spouse).  I know I shouldn't have been, but I was caught off guard by the request since usually the question is more subtle.  Usually the questions are along the lines of do I like the city or tell me about what a typical day is like.  This was much more upfront.  I hesitated before answering, contemplating what I should say.  It would be a lie to say that I love Albania.  While I like many things about the country, there are just as many things that frustrate me beyond belief.  Thus, I don't love it.  Most days I do like it--some days a lot even-- but on other days I do absolutely hate it.  Am I short changing the country by telling someone who has never been here that I don't love it?

It has taken me many years to realize and accept it, but it is OK to not love where you are.  And yes, it is even OK to hate where you are.  This doesn't make you a bad person.  Sometimes I get the feeling that admitting you aren't completely enamored with the place you currently live makes you an outcast (or as someone once told me, depressed).  At least that is how I often feel here in Albania.  Some people look at me like there is something wrong with me because they love Albania, or at least profess to loving it, so much and I don't. Too many people, especially non-Albanians, seem to take the criticism personally.  Yes, it is my personal opinion of the place but others are entitled to their own personal opinions as well.  We didn't point at a map one day and say we wanted to move to Albania.  The U.S. Navy asked us if we were willing to come here and after a bit of research, we agreed.  We've enjoyed the past two years and and we have been frustrated by the place at times but those are our personal feelings.  I have never expressed likes or dislikes on behalf of anyone other than myself.  And because we are all individuals with different likes and dislikes what works for one person doesn't necessarily work for another.  As adults we need to recognize and respect this.

Perhaps it is because I have traveled and lived in many places that I now have an understanding of what I personally like and don't like in a place I call "home".  Although they are incredibly important factors, it is more than the house or the neighborhood you live in.  The people around us, the opportunities that exist both locally and regionally, professionally and personally, and the daily living conditions of both ex-pats and natives alike all effect our quality of life and thus our own happiness.  We may live in a nice house by Albanian standards but it is hard to see Roma beggers on the streets and packs of feral dogs on the corner when we are out and about.  At the same time we regularly drive by cars that cost more than a year's salary for our household.  When our house is the only one in the neighborhood with electricity, thanks to our super sized generator, I feel for our neighbors who are going with out lights or heat.  The contrasts between the "haves" and the "have nots" here is really amazing and equally hard to accept.  

After pausing, I answered the question truthfully.  There are things I really like about the country and things I can't stand but in the end I have absolutely no regrets about our time in Albania.  Sure, it hasn't always been easy but show me someplace that truly is problem free.  While some of our time here has been really difficult for our family, we've also had opportunities to do and see things that we would never have otherwise experienced.  Our son has flourished here (and achieved a level of Albanian language proficiency that I can only dream about), we've traveled throughout Albania, Europe and back, and we have made life long Albanian and international friends.  And that I can't regret.  So no, I'm not loving it here but I wouldn't trade the experience for anything.

(Mostly) Wordless Wednesday: The Monasteries of Meteora

Because I'm still thinking about our trip to the Monasteries of Meteora, I need to share even more pictures:

Tirana By Foot

Busts--and these are the
"friendly" looking ones

I rarely walk in Tirana.  Between the lack of consistent sidewalks and safe infrastructure, the traffic that is just as apt to park and drive on the broken sidewalks as they are to drive on the streets, and the complete disregard for pedestrian safety, (ironically) driving is just a safer option.  That said, when I do drive I am so busy being on the lookout for the a fore mentioned drivers that I usually miss the sights.  I've heard of most of the major sites and have even directed others to them but have never visited most of them myself.  This past weekend, however, I got out and walked and saw a whole new side of the city that I had been missing.

At its heart, Tirana is a former Communist city and that is readily evident where ever you turn.  From the broad main boulevard that runs between the city's two main squares to the vast squares themselves, you can see remnants of the past.  One square, named after the national hero is lush and green and lined with meticulously maintained ministry buildings, museums, and that national opera house.  The other square is a neglected concrete jungle where traffic speeds around parked cars and meandering pedestrians.  Ironically, it is this square that is named for Mother Teresa, who is perhaps the most internationally recognized Albanian in history.  A small and appropriately humble statue of the nun sits in the back corner of the square.  I had always heard that it was there but until I got out and walked I had never actually seen her.  The bronze statue itself was nice but the area immediately surrounding it was dirty, neglected, and covered with glass shards.  It did little to pay homage to her greatness.  And speaking of statues, like all good Communist countries, both current and former, statues are everywhere.  Some are prominent while others are discretely tucked away but all seem to have the same rigid bodies and stern unsmiling faces.

A view from one end of
the boulevard

Beyond the statues, Tirana has other must see landmarks that are best appreciated on foot.  The iconic pyramid, once a grand display of architecture honoring the country's late dictator and now a decrepit and graffiti covered eyesore, speaks to both Albania's past and present.  Tirana's newest memorial pays homage to the country's (recent) dark Communist past in both a whimsical and serious way.  Churches and mosques sit side by side and demonstrate Albania's long history of religious tolerance.  The front facade of the museum of national history boasts a large tiled mosaic depicting Albanian history from ancient to modern times.  Driving by while dodging traffic just doesn't do it justice; it takes standing in front of the building to really appreciate all of the details.

And then there is the every day Tirana.  Walking along the bustling Saturday morning sidewalks I saw shops and cafes I never knew existed--or had only heard about but didn't know where they were located. Some were fancy and others were little more than holes in the wall.  People of all ages were out and about; men both young and old lounged at sidewalk tables while clusters of old women clutching plastic shopping bags hobbled down the sidewalk.  Roma pan handlers shared sidewalk space with young couples pushing pimped out baby strollers which made walking on the narrow and uneven sidewalks even more difficult.  (There are very few curb cuts on any Albanian sidewalks so easy access for all but the most mobile is non-existent).  Street vendors selling everything from grilled corn and fresh flowers to cell phones, used shoes,  and paperback books added to the hustle and bustle.

But all of this made Tirana feel real.  All too often it is easy to not experience only one side of a city.
As a visitor to a city you might see the polished tourist attractions but how often do see how people really live?  I know that when we travel to new places we try to get out of the expected areas and see what the communities are really like.  And after two years, we finally did this right in our (temporary) home.  We saw the sights, both good and bad, the historic and the modern; we got caught up in organized tours and local crowds, and saw the Tirana as it really is.  We really should have done this sooner but I'm glad we finally did it.  In our next city I won't wait as long to do it.

Discovering a part of Albania's recent past

Tick-Tock Tick-Tock

Tick tock, tick tock goes our countdown clock.

Where has the time gone?  The summer flew by in a flurry of heat, work, and travel and now it is September, the month of transitions, changes, and new beginnings. This is our third September in Albania but this year is different since it is our last.  With just under five months until we move onto our next adventure I know this fall will also fly by.

The first six months of this year dragged.  We were busy, even busier than usual as we worked, traveled, and most importantly, found out where we would be heading to next.  Belgium!  It was unexpected yet welcomed and gave us a lot to think about.  This knowledge in itself should have made the time fly by but it didn't.  January crept into February then March seemed endless.  Despite the warmer temperatures of April and May it rained non-stop (a preview of our future perhaps?) so these months were just as bad.  It felt as though we were going no where fast and the fall felt a lifetime away.  And then June arrived.  She sped by in a flash as did July and August and suddenly I find it being September.

Fall is always busy.  After the long lazy days of summer the pace of life picks up.  Days are shorter but seemingly filled with more activities.  Here in Europe, where August is the official month of vacations and many stores and restaurants simply shutter their doors for weeks on end, people return to their jobs in September ready to get back to work.  I feel the pace picking up all around me.  People seem more focused at work and with the start of the schools, traffic has increased.  The fall months are also filled with both American and Albanian holidays meaning short but intense work weeks and long weekends filled with endless opportunities for exploring (or working or de-cluttering....the list could go on).  And all too soon the big holidays- Thanksgiving and Christmas- will be here with their usual madness and this will be followed shortly by the New Year.

And with the New Year we will be leaving Albania.  So all this means I have a whole lot to do between now and then.  I must be organized, efficient, and proactive.  There are preparations to be made and an all too full house to be purged and packed out.  And then there are the farewells to be had.  Throw in a visit from the grandparents and a final trip or two to complete our Albanian bucket list and there won't be a moment to spare.  Somehow I seriously doubt that these final months of the year will drag the way the first few did.  Time is sure to fly and all of a sudden I'm feeling that I have too much to do and not enough time to do it.  I'm now living life on fast forward.

And not that I'm counting or anything, but we have 140 days until we depart.  And a whole lot to do between now and then.

(Mostly) Wordless Wednesday: Scenes Of Croatia

Who needs a lot of words when pictures say so much?

The newest member of the EU family

An iconic  church

Many signs yet no sightings

Classic Mediterranean red tiled roofs

Church bells

Viewed from the sea

And viewed from the land

A pre-dawn alley

Greeting the day before the tourists descend

Drying laundry

The harbor at sunset

The Walled City Of Dubrovnik

A bird's eye view 

As a last hurrah to summer, we spent the long Labor Day weekend in Dubrovnik, Croatia.  We've visited before, three times in fact, but love this beautiful walled city so much that we keep returning.  Like so many places here in the Balkans, Dubrovnik is just a few hours away from Tirana but culturally, socially, and economically is a world away.  A unique combination of Central and Western Europe with a smattering of Venetian and Balkan influence thrown in for good measure, Dubrovnik itself is just downright beautiful.  Add in the food, people, and culture and you have a dream vacation spot.

Croatia may be the newest member of the European Union, but her history runs deep.  Dubrovnik is located on the Adriatic Sea at the southern end of the fabled Dalmatian Coast.  (The old town is actually located atop the sea with the ebb and flow of the sea affecting her stability).  Since 1979 the walled city has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and as such receives millions of visitors each year.  The city has a long and varied past.  Her modern history is tragic.  A part of former Yugoslav Republic, the city was bombed in 1991 by Serb-Montenegrin forces and suffered significant damage before being liberated the following year by the Croatian Army.  (A solemn museum inside the city pays homage to the young men who lost their lives during this modern war).  The city was first settled in the 7th Century then later came under the protection of the Byzantine Empire.  During the 11th Century Dubrovnik fell under the sovereignty of Venice and the Venetian influences are readily apparent today.  After the Venetians came the Ottomans then Napoleon's Army followed by the Austria-Hungarian Empire before finally becoming a part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.   From ancient Byzantine churches to marbled alleys the past is still alive in Dubrovnik.  Yet the city is quite modern.

The view from the water

This visit to Dubrovnik was a bit different from previous ones.  We were traveling with friends so instead of booking our usual hotel we reserved a series of small rental apartments which allowed us to accommodate all of our sleeping preferences and budgets.  I know people who swear by vacation rentals but we've always stuck with hotels.  I like their one stop convenience that includes parking, fresh linens daily, and room service and coffee on demand.  Our Dubrovnik apartment, however, might have made me a convert.  Tucked away in the old city but away from the hustle and bustle of the main street, our accommodations were both spacious and homey.  Sure we had to lug our bags up a lot of steep steps to get there and we had to go out to get our morning coffee, but our little stone apartment was like a slice of heaven.  I actually found myself fantasizing about what it would be like to live there all of the time!  The other major difference about this trip was the season.  We'd visited the city during both the Christmas season

The marbled streets in the pre-dawn hours

and late spring and loved the sleepy feel of the city.  This was definitely not the case this time around.  The Dalmatian Coast is in the midst of peak tourist season and the streets, restaurants, and shops were bursting with tourists.  As if there weren't already enough people there, each day two or three mega-sized cruise ships offloaded their passengers for a day of exploring on shore.  At times wading through the crowds of map holding, sun hat wearing and shopping bag totting tourists was too much to bear.  But when that was the case we could retreat back up the stairs to our shading hide-away and wait for the crowds to thin.

But some things don't change regardless of the amount of people there.  The old city is just plain beautiful.  Whether viewed in the early morning light, the blazing midday sun, or after dark Dubrovnik is breathtaking.  The pedestrian-only white marble streets and alley ways of Stari Grad are a maze of  dead end paths providing the perfect opportunity for the three little boys in our group to run, explore, and chase pigeons to their heart's content.  Yes there were crowds but knowing that they weren't in danger of getting run down by a scooter or speeding car made gave all of the parents in a group a sense of relief.  Inside the city walls are numerous shops, restaurants, and outdoor cafes so

Every time I see this I think of a pirate's lair

despite the crowds finding an empty table was never a problem.  My favorite spot was actually a tiny bar perched on the outside of the wall overlooking the Adriatic Sea.  With the boys under the "supervision" of their father's, us girls retreated to this little piece of heaven without worrying about small children falling over the side of the cliffs.  However brief, this respite was priceless.  As is the case with any tourist destination, the prices are steep.  A part of the sticker shock comes from living in Albania where food and drink is ridiculously inexpensive.  In Dubrovnik, single meals cost more than a week's worth of groceries in Albania but the food was so fresh and delicious and the atmosphere so unbeatable that we just went with the flow.  After all, we were on vacation.

As our days in Tirana wind down, I realize that opportunities like this are indeed numbered.  We've visited many places over the past two years but very few compare to the beauty of Dubrovnik. Perhaps that is why it is one of the few places we've returned to again and again.  And because we enjoy it so much, it is likely that we will return here yet again long after we've moved out of the Balkans.  I just can't get enough of it.