An Under Appreciated Albanian Treasure

A cornerstone captured in
black and white

One of the things I love the most about Albania is the ability to get out and explore areas that are remote and off the beaten path.  Sometimes this means just getting in the car and driving to where ever the "road" takes us but other times it involves participating in an organized tour to visit some of Albania's hidden gems.  This past weekend I had the opportunity to do just this when, along with a group of others from our Embassy, I participated in a tour of the Bylis Archaeological Park in the southern part of Albania.

The ancient Greek speaking city of Bylis dates back to the mid 4th Century BC.  Located on 30 hectares 524 meters above sea level, the walled city was at various times controlled by the Roman and Illyrian empires and for a brief period of time the city had its own form of currency.  As is evidenced by the ruins of five separate basilicas (coined A,B,C,D, and E by archaeologists since the ruins did not reveal with certainty the true names of each church) found within the city walls, religion played a pivotal role in daily Bylis life.  Much to the delight of archaeologists, numerous intact mosaics have been discovered amongst the basilica ruins.  Other finds at the site include the remnants of the old arsenal, numerous cisterns that provided this hilltop city with their source of water, the thermal baths, and a vast amphitheater that could seat thousands of people and the houses of ordinary citizens.  As was characteristic for cities of this time, fortress like gates (six in the case of Bylis) were the only means of egress into the walled city.

Ruins, ruins, and more ruins sitting atop the mountain

A mosaic in the ruins of one of the five basilicas
that were in Bylis.  It is normally protected by sand but
they uncovered it for our group.

An intricate archway; I can only imagine how impressive all of
Bylis must have been in its hey-day.

Our extremely knowledgeable English speaking tour guide provided us with an impressive overview of the history of Bylis.  My immediate thought upon arriving was that the ruins of Bylis reminded me of the ruins of Pompeii.  The layout of the city was similar as were the explanations of the significance of each excavated ruin.  As we scrambled over rocks and explored the ancient ruins he explained the history and purpose of each spot we stopped at.  His explanation provided us with insight into how the ancient Illyrians --both the well off and the peasants--residing at Bylis actually lived.  (This is a reason I am a huge proponent of hiring a tour guide whenever possible.  To the untrained eye a ruin is a ruin, a rock is a rock, but when the story behind each detail is revealed, the site takes on a whole new meaning).  At each step the guide warned us to be careful since we never knew what we might step on.  From uncovered cistern holes that extended down farther than the eye could see to unstable rocks, and the thousands of small snails that crunched when you stepped on them (really), each step had the potential for an adventure.  Earning his fee, our guide even led our group out of the main ruins and down a thorny path that was once an ancient road leading into the city.  Here he showed us the caverns from which most of the rock that built the city came from and an engraved stone etched with the name of one of the area's earliest explorers.  And being a good guide, he scared away any potential snakes by beating the bushes and pounding the path with a metal pole as we went!

Ruins of the Roman (thermal) bath.  They took bathing
seriously in this part of the ancient world.

Looking west from Bylis, the sweeping view of the river below.

Last year we had the opportunity to visit Apollonia, another national Albanian archaeological site, which while relatively close to Bylis, has a much more robust and developed tourism footprint. Whereas Apollonia was buzzing with visitors during our March visit, with the exception of a handful of workers preparing for next week's Miss Albania contest, we had the entire site of Bylis to ourselves.  Our guide informed us that Apollonia averages 100 visitors a day while Bylis receives a total of 500 visitors a year.  The lack of a well developed tourism industry at Bylis was evident but in my opinion, that is what made this site even more special.  There was something awe inspiring about walking in the footsteps of such an ancient civilization and yet I am surprised that more people haven't sought the site out.  It is with mixed feelings that I wish more people would visit Bylis.  Since the first dig in 1978, a lot of work has already been done to preserve and restore the site but more still needs to be done.  (And at roughly two dollars per admission, the park has a long way to go in even covering their expenses solely through visitor fees).  Increased interest in the site could generate more revenue but an influx of visitors could potentially take away from the pristine and wild feel of the place.  I guess you can't have it both ways but with that said, I am still advocating that more people get out and visit Bylis if the opportunity arises. You won't be disappointed.

Historic Durresi

Part of the remaining Byzantine Wall that once surrounded the city

On the coast of the Adriatic Sea, the city of Durres is the largest port in Albania.  While we have travelled to all corners of Albania, after living here for seventeen months I had only visited the port area of the city in order to take the dreaded ferry to Italy.  And like any port area around the world, the area is less than impressive.  Albanian colleagues had assured me that Durres was a beautiful city with historic buildings, archaeological ruins, and a lot to offer but I had remained skeptical. That is until this past weekend when I attended an Embassy sponsored tour of what turns out to be an amazingly historic city.

We were fortunate to have a dynamic English speaking guide whose knowledge of the history of Albania was both amazing and mind boggling.  Not only could Lida rattle off facts, dates, and historical names as though they were second nature, she wasn't fazed by a single question that was thrown her way.  (As an American history major I couldn't even begin to recite a fraction of the facts of my own country).  And our group of Americans was full of questions pertaining to both Durres and Albania. 

The remains of the Roman Baths and the
exterior of the Communist-era building
that was constructed on top of the ruins.

As is the case with many of Albania's historic sites, their level of preservation is minimal at best, non-existent and tragic at worst.  This was evident at each of the sites we visited during the day.  Like many ancient ruins (those in Rome come to mind) modern cities have popped on all sides of these historic relics.  Often the spaces encroach upon one another but never to the extent that I saw in Durres.  In so many respects, nothing exemplifies the contrast between old and new more than these sights.  After peering over the fence and into the partially excavated Byzantine era Forum, Lida used her magic key (she is so well known in both Durres and Albanian historical circles that she is given unfettered access to many sites) to escort us down into the old Roman Baths dating to the early 2nd Century AD.  The baths were first discovered several decades ago during the construction of an unfortunate concrete, Communist-Era building.  To Albania's credit the ruins were not completely destroyed.  To Albania's discredit, they continued to construct the building which now sits on  concrete pillars over the top of the baths.  It was an interesting experience to clamber through the old bath, walk along one of the main roads of the ancient city and explore the old aqua duct all while standing in what should be the basement of a concrete apartment building. Somehow I feel like the entire experience (for better or for worse) was uniquely Albanian.

Inside the Roman Baths and under the building;
an interesting take on historic preservation
to say the least.

Lida lead us through the narrow cobblestone streets to the entrance to the ancient amphitheater.  Some of the streets were remarkably well preserved while others were comprised of stamped concrete which I think was an attempt to replicate the original pavers.  During the 2nd-century AD this amphitheater was the largest one in the Balkans with an arena that measured approximately 60 meters by 40 meters and had a seating capacity for 15,000 spectators.  This is about one-third of the capacity of the Colosseum in Rome.  Today the site is only partially excavated since modern houses and roads sit atop this once historic site.  Again, this demonstrated the stark contrast between old and new and exemplified how Albania has not undertaken historic preservation in a serious manner.  As Lida led us through the narrow passageways and out into the open arena, she casually pointed out sites that she had personally excavated.  How often is it that one gets a personal tour of a site by the very person who had unearthed its treasures?  We were escorted through the Byzantine chapel complete with a baptismal and home to the only wall mosaics ever found in Albania.  The chapel was used for funeral services after gladiatorial combat had been banned in the 5th century.  Evidence of burial chambers- one holding 40 bodies- was evident and it is speculated that the un-excavated portion of the arena floor contains even more graves waiting to be discovered.

Inside the amphitheater

The advantage of having such a knowledgeable guide was obvious throughout the entire day. Not only could she point out minute details that would have otherwise been lost on us, she was able to show us what was original to the sites, what was preserved, and what was reconstructed.  Some of it was readily apparent even to the untrained eye but others were less so.  It is sad that the opportunity for the preservation of so many of these important and historic artifacts has been lost. While it is small consolidation that some preservation has taken place, much of it appears to have been poorly done or not done at all.  I guess it is half a dozen of one and half a dozen of the other. While so much has been lost there is still time to save what is left.  I hope that is in the future for this surprisingly historic city.