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Mons 2015: This Year's European Capital of Culture

In yesterday's blog post I shared pictures from this past weekend's opening event for Mons 2015. Today I'm going to explain what Mons 2015 is and some of the things I have to look forward to in the coming year. (Again I keep telling myself that it is just so cool that I have all of these great events taking place literally blocks from my house!).

So what is a European Capital of Culture? Simply put, it is a cultural initiative within the European Union that annually showcases the cultural heritage of selected cities.

Since 1985, the EU Council of Ministers has been selecting between one and five European cities to carry the title for a one year time period. The first city to carry this designation was Athens, Greece and since then cities large and small, capitals and provincial outposts throughout Europe have worn this designation with pride. This designation has been used as a tool for urban renewal, job creation and economic growth as well as an opportunity to highlight the sometimes neglected artistic and cultural aspects of a community. In a 2004 study the European Commission found that being selected as a European Capital of Culture has created longterm transformation for chosen cities. Simply put, this designation is a big deal. And that brings us back to Mons.

Yes, Mons. This little city is the southwestern part of Belgium, often overlooked and neglected is a 2015 European Capital of Culture. (Mons shares this year's title with Plzen, Czech Repubic). I had known about this designation when we first moved here a year ago. At the time people were referencing it but the details were vague. We heard that the year would be filled with activities but that was all we really knew. A new train station was being built in anticipation of all of the visitors who would be descending. We've been watching the construction's progress, or lack there of, over the past year and wondered if the station would really be completed in time. (It turns out our doubts were founded with the projected completion date now being the "end of 2015"). A large wooden piece of public art by Belgian artist Arne Quinze went up...and then came down. As residents of the city center a month ago we received a notification informing us of street closures, residential parking bans and driving restrictions within the city. I began to wonder if this designation was going to be more of an inconvenience for us than anything else.

But then, Mons 2015 officially opened. As the weekend approached the streets looked cleaner and more litter free than usual. Barriers and no parking signs were placed on corners and intersections. Roads began to be closed. In anticipation of the parking and driving ban we made plans to hunker down for the weekend and enjoy the festivities by foot. (Again, this is the great thing about living right in the center of the city). The theme for the opening festivities was "Illumination". As in lights. And sure enough, after a snowy then rainy morning the weather cleared up and illuminated art displays filled the city's squares, parks and open spaces. I'll admit the silver foil ponchos that were handed out to make the audience a part of a "living mirror ball" were a bit weird and perhaps I didn't see enough of them to truly appreciate their intended effect. But the larger than life, multi-colored sculptures that filled the Belfry park were spectacular. (We can see the belfry from our house and have been watching its changing color displays for weeks but it was great to finally be able to see it up close). Then there was the fantastic fireworks display that we could actually view from the second story of our house. But our favorite exhibit of all was the one involving fire. Located in Place du Parc, impressive displays involving fire and water filled the streets and green spaces. There were the giant flame filled balls that were suspended from a crane, candle lit arches over all of the park's walkways, giant fire pits that served as both warming stops and art and artists playing with fire and flames. A band performed under and flame filled stage. It really was a spectacular sight to behold.

I'm not sure what I expected to see but I must say I was impressed by all of the evening's events. Sure the crowds (not as bad as I had anticipated) and blocked streets were an inconvenience but it was all worth it. I've always loved the way Europe embraces public art, both the traditional and envelope pushing displays, and the Illumination event highlighted the best of public art. I'm now excited to see what the rest of this year of culture holds in store. And apparently others feel the same way. CNN's travel section named Mons as one of the top ten destinations to visit in 2015 and Britain's The Guardian has been covering this year's activities in Mons. If the media hype is to believed, the crowds are going to come. Am I ready? Yes. I can't wait. It really is a great time to be here in Belgium.

Mons 2015: Illumination

This year Mons is a European Capital of Culture. Here are a few pictures of the opening festivities of Mons 2015. The theme was "Illumination".

Monet, I Am Not

I am not an artistic person by nature. Even as an adult my attempts at drawing more closely resemble stick figures a four year old could draw. (Well, not my four year old, since he has unfortunately inherited my (lack of) artistic talent. But that doesn't mean I don't like art. In fact, I love it and one of my long time, unfulfilled dreams has been to be an artist. A painter to be specific. But I'm not an artist and if nothing else, this lack of artistic skill makes me admire the work of others all the more since creating it myself feels so out of reach.

In high school and then again in college I had the idea that I could take a painting class. After all they were readily available and the students who took these classes produced such beautiful pieces of work. And that was exactly what prevented me from enrolling in a class. Everyone in the classes already had artistic talent; I felt as though I would have been out of my element. As an adult I continued to think about taking a painting class but the timing of the local adult education classes never seemed to fit into my schedule. (And I still harbored that fear of being the only one in the class without an iota of artistic talent). I even went as far as coordinating an art class for community members when we were with the US Embassy in Tirana. Yes, I organized the class but due to scheduling conflicts --and a little bit of residual fear-- I never enrolled. So when we arrived in Belgium and I noticed that the local arts center was offering a beginning water color class that  fit into my schedule, I impulsively signed up for the class before I could talk myself out of it.

Once I had signed up however, I immediately started having buyers regret. I emailed the instructor to find out whether the class was really for beginners who had never painted before. She assured me that it was and more over, because I was the only one who had signed up, my five week class would actually be five weeks of private painting lessons. I was a bit nervous on my first day since I didn't know what to expect but my teacher immediately put me at ease, introducing me to various paints, brushes, and canvases. She showed me how to use combinations of paint, water, and brushes to create different techniques. It was all so basic yet it was exciting to me. I was finally learning how to do create these designs that I had only admired from afar. Granted, my painting samples still look like something a four year old would create but I don't care any more. I'm having fun and that is what is really important. I now find myself looking forward to my Wednesday mornings. Not only am I finally, after all these years, taking a painting class, but I'm doing something that is completely for me. When I sit down with that paintbrush my focus is no longer being a wife and a mother, it is about my taking the time to tease out any artistic ability that is lurking inside of me. And that is priceless. I may never be Monet but I'm going to have fun trying.

From Tiny Pieces Of Stone, Artwork Forms

A small framed mosaic representing days of work
comprised of hundreds of pieces of tile, stone, and glass

In their most basic form, mosaics are a type art work created through assembling small pieces of tiles, stones, or glass to depict larger scenes.  During ancient times mosaics depicted both the times and served as a means of paying homage to the gods and idols whose presence influenced daily life.  Mosaics may have been designed to be a part of a wall or a floor; they were both small and grand in scale; their subject matter could have been a simple ornamental design or more often, depicted an important religious figure.  Through luck or circumstance some mosaics are better preserved than others.  All too often I hear of mosaics that have been unknowingly destroyed by the actions of mother nature and time or even intentionally pillaged by unscrupulous humans looking to make a quick buck.  Many of the better preserved mosaics are in their current condition because they have been protected from the elements.  Regardless of their condition, these surviving mosaics represent an art form as old as time itself and having the opportunity to view them is a real treat.  In this part of the world, during visits to museums, churches, and excavated ruins the viewing of mosaics is often the highlight of the visit.  Such was the case during a recent trip to the ancient Illyrian city of Bylis when my group had the opportunity to view a large mosaic that was normally protected from the elements by a thick layer of sand.

A temporarily uncovered mosaic at Bylis

Not all mosaics are ancient however as the art form is still practiced by a small number of skilled artisans. And as such,  I was recently fortunate enough to be able to visit a mosaic workshop right here in Tirana.  In his small studio tucked into an alley off of one of Tirana's main streets, artist Eduard Sinaj creates mosaics that are commissioned  by individuals, businesses, and churches throughout Albania and the region.  His mosaics are large and small and grace private residences, local businesses, churches and cathedrals throughout Albania.  His work is just as likely to depict ancient religious figures and icons as it is to portray scenes of modern still life and abstract designs.  All of this is proof that this ancient art form is still practiced and appreciated in today's modern world.

As a part of the visit to the studio Mr. Sinaj explained in great detail the process from bringing a mosaic from concept to reality.  It all starts with an idea and only takes off from there.  The variety of small stones and tiles-- from jewel toned glass and opaque stones to highly prized Murano glass and tiles gilded with silver and gold-- all of them have the potential for becoming a part of a mosaic.  Despite the modern technology that is available in this day and age, Mr. Sinaj goes about his work by hand, sketching the designs, shaping each stone, and placing each tile onto the work surface individually.  It is no wonder that even the smallest mosaic can take months to complete.  Smaller mosaics are completed entirely within the studio while larger ones start in the studio then are assembled by a team of artisans at their final destination.  The painstaking work is truly impressive and makes me, a person without an artistic bone in my body, truly envious.

The surface on which the mosaic will be created

Glass, tile, and stone chips.....a deconstructed mosaic

Tiles  are still chiseled and shaped by hand

A mosaic that has been commissioned by a local apartment complex

Mr. Sinaj's work is truly amazing and I can see why his talents are in such demand.  And I love the fact that this ancient art form is continuing to be practiced in an age when new and modern seems to be all the rage.  I was so impressed with what I saw that Glenn and I are contemplating commissioning our own (small) mosaic so that we can take a part of Albania's rich heritage with us when we depart.  Now if only we can decide what we want..........

A sampling of Mr. Sinaj's work

A Day With A Grand Lady & Some Of Her Friends

The grand lady of the museum

Since no trip to Paris would be complete without a visit to the Louvre, we spent this past Sunday exploring this magnificent museum that houses some of the world's great masterpieces.  Our plan had been to go early and try to beat the crowds but this being the Louvre, and a weekend at that, there are always crowds so we decided to just make the best of it.  (Besides, we'd been out later than usual the night before so an early start just didn't happen!).  And much to our surprise, with the exception of a few notable exhibits, the crowds really weren't that bad. Perhaps it was because Sunday was the first beautiful sunny day in a while and most people didn't want to spend it inside.  Or maybe it is because the museum is just so large.  In either case, it all worked just fine for us as we had many exhibits to ourselves and were able to really take in and absorb as much art as we could out of all that this museum has to offer.

Intricate details all done by hand

Because the Louvre is home to Leonardo da Vinci's world famous Mona Lisa, we made visiting this painting a top priority.  Apparently so did all of the other visitors as this is where we found the crowds.  The exhibit room housing this painting was packed with camera snapping tourists flocking to see this famous painting.  (I guess you can count us among the group).  Even if the hoards of people weren't there, the painting was cordoned off in a way that prohibited a close up examination of her so we took a picture of two then moved on.  Because the museum is so large we decided that rather than try to take it all in, we would select a few exhibits to view in depth and save the others for a return visit.  (And there will be a return visit). Egyptian art is always interesting but having spent a considerable amount of time viewing it at the Kunsthistorisches during our January trip to Vienna, we decided to focus on sculptures. From Jupiter and Minerva to Venus de Milo and Aphrodite, the Louvre has them all.  Repeatedly I was amazed at the level of detail found on these sculptures.  When I remembered the times during which these pieces of work were created, I was even more impressed.  Each minute detail was chiseled by hand.  (Or as Glenn said, there was no Dremel used here).  More than once I found myself peering closely to see if the detail was really made of stone.  And it was.

As we wandered from one salon to another we noticed something beyond the grand masterpieces.  As is often the case, the museum buildings themselves are pieces of art.  The Louve's history as a palace was evident at every turn.  From sweeping stairways to grand foyers I almost found myself missing the artwork because I was absorbing the details of each room.  High, intricately painted ceilings dominated many rooms, soaring windows offered views of the manicured grounds, and arched doorways welcomed you into the next room.  And this was just on the inside of the museum.  The exterior details of the museum were just as grand as the inside.  We wandered through the former apartments of Napoleon III, just one of many royals who have called this palace home.  I couldn't decide whether or not his quarters are ostentatious, epically grand, or a bit of both.  From the forty-six person dining room table (yes, we counted) to one parlor after another, everything was draped in velvet and gilded in gold.  Impressive? Yes.  Over the top?  Even more so.  Pictures just can't do the experience justice.

I am a bit ashamed to admit that prior to my visit, I never understood what all the fuss over the Louvre was about. After all, all of the great world capitols have famous museums that house impressive masterpieces.  And many of these museums are located in impressive buildings.  But having been there, I now understand.  It is the combination of all of these factors that makes the Louvre so impressive and grand.   I now understand why this museum is on every Parisian travel itinerary and listed as a must see on travel sites.  It really is a must see.  I know I only saw a small dose of what the museum has to offer but I also know that I will be back.  Having received a small taste of what it offers how can I not return?

One of Napoleon's parlors

A glimpse out a window

Looking up a sweeping stairway