(Mostly) Wordless Wednesday: The White Cliffs of Dover

The Secret Tunnels Of Dover

Last week I blogged about our explorations of Dover Castle. What I didn't talk about at the time was the vast network of tunnels that exist in the cliff walls under the castle grounds. These tunnels, along with their neighboring underground hospital, played a vital role in World War II and are just as impressive, in not more so, than the expansive grounds above them.

The tunnels themselves were not new during World War II; smaller ones had first been dug during the Middle Ages as a means of communication between soldiers as part of the fortress's defense system. They were expanded during the Napoleonic, with the narrow hallways serving as barracks for up to 2, 000 British soldiers (and to date, were the only tunnels that ever served as barracks). The tunnels were once again expanded during World War II during which time they served as a hospital, an air raid shelter and the nerve center for the evacuation of both British and French soldiers from across the English Channel during the Battle of Dunkirk. Code named "Operation Dynamo", under the direction of Admiral Sir Bertram Ramsey, a total of 338,000 British and French soldiers were rescued from the beaches of Dunkirk, France and carried across the Channel to England. As the war continued, the tunnels became a telephone operations center whose needs grew so much that the tunnels were further expanded. During the Cold War the tunnels were the planned regional seat of government for 300 military and government leaders should a nuclear attack occur. NATO even carried out secret exercises on the site in the days before the Cuban Missile Crisis. Fortunately, they were never needed for this purpose. Today, the total length of the tunnels and rooms, some of which are inaccessible, are up to 150 feet below the surface and are just over three miles long length.  And after years of being closed up and forgotten, they are open to the public.

The overall exhibit was quite impressive. We entered the tunnels on their land side before emerging an hour later on the other side with a sweeping view of the English Channel. But I'm getting ahead of myself. One of my favorite things about touring foreign (from an American's perspective) historical site is learning about history from a different perspective. And this tour did not disappoint. First our tour guide led us down a long narrow set of stairs deep into the cliff walls and through a series of scenario rooms depicting the various phases of the war. Sitting on a bench in a chilly and dimly lit room, we heard Winston Churchill's announcement that Britain had entered the War. We were later "evacuated" down the tunnel into another chamber where we viewed maps and charts depicting the routes of the fighting armies. We were allowed to peek into rooms that served as offices, living quarters and the telephone operations center. The tour concluded with a self guided tour of other period documents and memorabilia. It amazed me to think that this virtual city unknowingly existed right under cliffs.

A view from the tunnel; it is easy to understand why these tunnels were
so strategically important

If you go:

Castle Hill
Dover, Kent UK
Tel: 0870 333 1181
www.english-heritage.org.uk
Hours: 10.00-18.00

Tunnel tours are included in the price of castle admission and take place every 20 minutes. Wait times may be lengthy during peak times.

A Castle On The Cliffs: Dover

Dover Castle as seen from the White Cliffs of Dover

We visited our share of castles while we were in Albania but none were as impressive or intact as our first British castle. Dover Castle, perched on the cliffs about the English Channel, has played a pivotal role in British history since the 12th Century. Over the years it has fended off invasions, withstood the storms of time and served as the residence of kings. Part of the castle was burned by William the Conqueror the rebuilt before he took occupation of it. During Henry II's reign the castle took on the look we see today and although Louis VIII of France was able to breach the outer walls during his invasion, his army was unable to actually capture the castle. During the Napoleonic Wars the castle was further fortified with the town of Dover becoming a garrison town for the British troops.  But today, despite all of the attacks from both man and nature, the castle remains largely intact and solid as the day(s) it was built.

The castle grounds are expansive including guard houses, a stand alone Anglo-Saxon church (this is in addition to the royal chapel inside of the castle itself) and a Roman era lighthouse. Tunnels from both the Medieval and more modern times helped serve as a vital defense system for the castle grounds. A long walk down a steep and winding staircase brought us to the ancient Medieval where we peered out through the barred windows, saw how the sentries remotely opened the gates for visitors, and were able to explore the subterranean maze of tunnels and caverns. (And even the views from some of the smallest peep holes were impressive).

A climb up through the 83 foot high Great Tower immerses visitors in the world and realm of King Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine. We just couldn't hold Sidney back as he ran from one cavernous stone room to another discovering the nooks and niches as children have probably been doing for generations. He was less than impressed with the stark school room but was fascinated by the loo room (naturally) and didn't want to climb down from his perch on the royal throne. From the roof of the tower we were afforded a view of not only the grounds and the English Channel but the shores of France as well. The sweeping views gave me an idea of how easy it would have been for castle guards to see the invading armies long before they arrived.

Other areas of the castle grounds provided further insight into British history. The Roman era lighthouse provided evidence of occupation of the area long before the castle was built. A tour of World War II era tunnels taught me about a battle I had previously known little about. The Princess of Wales Royal Regiment Museum provided us with an overview of the history of the British military (and caused Sidney, upon seeing photographs and a replication of World War I trenches, to excitedly proclaim that "I have been there").

Castle grounds as seen from the Great Tower

If you go:

Castle Hill
Dover, Kent UK
Tel: 0870 333 1181
www.english-heritage.org.uk
Hours: 10.00-18.00

On The White Cliffs Of Dover

The White Cliffs of Dover

I remember hearing about the White Cliffs of Dover for years and wondered if their chalky color was as real in person as it was in the pictures I had seen. And thanks to a recent visit I can now firmly state that they are.

Soaring 350 feet above the English Channel and located about 21 miles from the northern coast of France, these chalky white cliffs are an impressive sight. The distance is so short that on a clear day, much like the one we visited, you can clearly France from the top of the cliffs. During the 1940 Battle of Britain, reporters are said to have watched the aerial maneuvers of the British and German pilots from the top of them. The cliffs themselves are composed of chalk, flint and quartz but because of their materials, are actually quite soft. This results in their eroding just under half an inch a year. Now this may not sound like a lot but over time it adds up. And sometimes, as was the case as recently as 2001 and again in 2012, large chunks of the cliffs have given way and collapsed into the sea. (Hence the reason visitors are advised to stay away from the edges of the cliffs).

Another perspective

Today, visiting the cliffs is a breathtaking experience. The day we visited defied our weather expectations as we experienced nothing but clear blue skies and lots of bright sunshine. Much of the area surrounding the cliffs is protected by the National Trust whose members may access the site for free. For the rest of us, we paid a nominal fee to park our car but were then free to rambled across the grassy cliff tops for free. (Seriously, this is one of the best value historic sites I've ever visited). There is a visitor center on site as well as the ubiquitous gift shop and cafe but the best part of the visit is just getting out and exploring. A series of well worn paths crisscrosses the length of the cliffs. Trails are both well marked and unmarked providing the opportunity to take the "high"route well away from the cliff edge or the "lower" route which follows the dips and rises of the earth as it hugs the edges of the cliff. Or you can take the in between route which offers you a bit of both. Along the way there are plenty of benches where you can sit and rest and informational placards detailing the rich history of the area. Part of the route takes you alongside a sheep pasture and fields filled with wildflowers. If these sights weren't enough to take in, from the highest point on the cliffs we could simultaneously look west and see the Dover Castle, look south and see the shores of France and east to see the South Foreland Lighthouse which was built in 1843. It was all pretty spectacular. And because we were visiting in the middle of the week we had much of the place to ourselves.

After leisurely stroll up and down the hills we treated ourselves to a traditional cream tea at a cute little tea house that shared space with the lighthouse. Sidney checked out the old cannons that were on the lighthouse grounds while I simply enjoyed the view and the smell of the sea air. I have come to realize that not all sea air is created equal; the warm sultry smells of the Adriatic and Mediterranean Seas only vaguely resemble the crisp Atlantic smells I grew up with. For me, the air in Dover was reminiscent of my childhood. The walk back to the car was slower; we took the "lower" route which had considerably more dips and hills, including a rather steep set of stairs that scaled a hill. But the climb was worth it. Actually the entire visit was worth it and although it was the first stop on our getaway to Kent it was by far my favorite. I dare say I would return in a heartbeat.

Worn paths crisscrossing the top of the cliffs

If you go:

The White Cliffs of Dover & South Foreland Lighthouse
Upper Road
Dover, Kent
Telephone: 01304 202756
email: whitecliffs@nationaltrust.org.uk
http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/white-cliffs-dover/