Forgotten By Time

Moving goods the traditional way

When driving around Tirana on a typical day, it is easy to forget that it has only been a little over two decades since Albania emerged from her half a century of dictatorial imposed self-isolation.  On the surface the hustle and bustle of the traffic clogged streets with too little parking, meandering pedestrians not paying any attention to the a fore mentioned traffic, and ongoing construction and renovation of buildings looks like any other bustling city.  Upon closer inspection, however, you do notice that there is an unstructured chaos that only comes from the too rapid and unplanned development that permeates every inch of Albania's cities.  Urban centers are expanding their reach into what was once pristine countryside at a heartbreaking pace. It feels as though Albania is trying to make up for lost time and recapture that lost half century in a matter of years.  And some day--OK, many days-- this explosion of chaos is suffocating and unbearable. But a brief reprieve is easy to find since all you have to do to escape the chaos of the city is to drive a few kilometers in any direction and it is as though you are entering an entirely different world.  This is what I love about Albania; two very different worlds are often separated by a few mere kilometers.

During a break in the weather on a recent weekend, we decided to get out and explore.  After consulting with Google Maps, Glenn selected a route that essentially took us through a valley and behind the mountains directly to the west of Tirana.  We have been looking at these mountains from our balconies since we arrived here but had never ventured into them.  Driving out of Tirana we quickly (as in mileage, not time) left the urban sprawl behind us and soon found ourselves in what is now the suburbs, but a few short years ago would have been considered the country.  In their attempt to expand and modernize, new roads are being constructed everywhere throughout Albania and we found ourselves on one of them.  All of the road had yet to be paved but the portion that had been graded was wide and as smooth as gravel could be.  (Because there are so few roads in this country, roads are used as they are built; rather than keeping a road closed until it is complete, traffic shares the same space with construction equipment, farm animals, donkey carts, and pedestrians).  Quickly all of this ended and we found ourselves "detouring" along a narrow muddy outcropping with the raging river below us.  Then driving through a partially completed concrete tunnel, we were thrown back in time.

The tunnel that transported us back in time; this was the last Mercedes we saw on our trip

Emerging from the tunnel we found ourselves on a very narrow rutted "road" that meandered along a dry stream bed and through occasional settlements of clusters of three or four stone houses.  Each settlement had at least one Albanian style outdoor cafe with old men sitting in chairs around a decrepit table.  More often than not there was also a mosque.  Dogs and children roamed freely and at each location everyone stopped what they were doing and stared at us as we bounced on by.  Rickety electrical poles dotted the roadside but close inspection revealed the lack of wires connecting them.  Other than an occasional furgon, we were the only vehicle on the road.  

Going for a
midday stroll

We weren't really sure where we were going but kept driving along urged on by the pointing fingers and waving arms of the people we saw along the way.  Sometimes we came to a true dead end and turned around.  Other times our dead end was caused by a building that had been constructed in the middle of what had been the road.  After reaching a dead end that was some one's front yard, we back tracked and corrected our route.  Foolish us; we hadn't realized that the road was in the currently dry river bed.  (I don't know what happens when there is actually water in the river).  Coming up out of the river we crossed a bridge whose safety I questioned and found ourselves even farther back in time. Here it really felt as though the passage of time had stopped generations ago. 

We were still on a road but the road was getting narrower and narrower with each passing kilometer.  Sometimes we couldn't even see where the road was so we made our way by feel --- and by what looked like the safest route.  We drove between waterfalls and sheer cliffs, through rapidly running streams, over boulders, and around fresh landslides.  At this point we weren't even seeing any furgons and couldn't tell when the last time another vehicle had come through the area.  We would bounce along, for what felt like hours but was more likely minutes, through rocky hills before entering into small enclaves of a few houses and barns surrounded by small fields. Traditionally dressed peasants were tending their spring crops but all work came to a stop as they stared at us as we passed.  Some electrical poles now had wiring but most didn't.  As evidenced by the young boys who took pictures of our passing vehicle, cell phones were readily available so there must have been some form of electricity.  This scene was repeated over and over and felt both surreal and as though our mere presence was imposing on a way of life.

Distant mountains

The scenery however, was absolutely breathtaking.  The day was crystal clear and for as far as the eye could see there was nothing but snow capped mountains, arid rolling hills, and small patches of greening farm land.  Peering into the distance mountainsides one could make out clusters of red tiled roofs and the white mosques that are found in just about every settlement we passed through.  What I didn't realize as we went up and down spotting in the distance.  The bouncing and jostling of the vehicle became monotonous but the views, varied topography, and enchanting settlements certainly weren't.  We never knew what we would find around the next corner.  A building?  A farmer?  A farm animal?  A road block? Who knew?  At one point our road turned to cobblestone switchbacks and we realized that we were in fact driving on the remnants of an ancient road that had probably been travelled by the conquering Ottomans.  Geographically we were due west of Kruja so I found myself wondering whether the Albanian national hero Skanderbeg had ever travelled this route with his army.  Ever the history buff I started thinking about how amazing the possibilities were.

That Sunday we spent a total of six hours in our car yet we barely covered fifty miles, a third of which was on the paved autostrade on our return trip from Kruja to Tirana.  It felt as though we were a thousand miles away from the hustle, bustle, and congestion of Tirana yet in reality, we were most likely never more than ten to fifteen miles from the city center.  Tirana and these tiny hamlets are separated only by mountains yet culturally they couldn't be farther apart.  As Glenn pointed out, it is likely that we travelled a farther distance on that one afternoon than most of the peasants we passed ever had in their lifetimes.  

Our ability to take this short trip back in time is yet another one of the things I love about Albania.  Where else can you see such contrasts of modern and ancient in a natural state in one day?  Unlike the living history museums showcasing traditional life that are found in so many countries, this Albanian living history museum is the real thing.  Those aren't paid docents working the fields; rather generations of family members are farming and working the soil in order to feed themselves the way they have from hundreds of years.  Of course it is the geographic inaccessibility of the country's landscape that has preserved this traditional pocket of Albania.  With a new road being laid nearby, I wonder how much longer this way of life will continue to exist.  As is evidenced by the sprawl of Tirana, once it is gone, it is gone forever.

 

Occupied?  Unoccupied?  You decide.

Destination Kruja

Our first visit last summer

We had been in Albania less than a month before we discovering the town of Kruja.  Located less than an hour driving time outside of Tirana (which is nothing given the road conditions in the country and the time it takes to drive the shortest of distances), this small mountainside town is historic, touristy, and breathtaking all at the same time.  It has become our go-to location to take our out of town visitors- both official and unofficial.

View of the castle ruins

During the 15th Century Kruja was an important part of Albania's resistance movement against the invading Ottoman Empire.  Under the leadership of Albania's national hero George Kastrioti Skanderbeg, its castle was a part of Albania's inter-connected communication system that ran the length of the country warning citizens of impending invaders.  Its strategic location is still apparent.  On a clear day, you can see the Adriatic Sea to the west, Montenegro to the north, and the snow covered peaks of southeastern Albania to the south. On one visit we were fortunate enough to see all three at sunset (we even saw the green flash of the sun sinking into the horizon- something we had only previously seen in Hawaii).  During all of our visits, with the sheer mountains serving as a backdrop, we've seen the rolling hills filled with olive groves giving way to the flatter coastal plains.  Sometimes the mountains are shrouded in low lying clouds but it is always beautiful.

Exploring the castle grounds

By far, the main historical attraction of Kruja is its castle ruins and the Skenderbeg Museum.  While the walls remain, the castle itself is mostly in ruins.  It is possible to see the remains of some of the original buildings, including a mostly deteriorated monastery.  A small ethnographic museum depicting early life in Albania is located in one corner of the grounds.  And this being Albania, several cafes have been erected on spots that were once strategically placed lookout spots along the castle's exterior walls. 

In 1982, the Skenderbeg Museum, designed by Pranvera Hoxha, the architecture daughter of the later dictator, opened.  We've toured this museum on several occassions both by ourselves and under the guidance of English speaking docents.  As you wind through the warren of small rooms filled with ancient artifacts, maps, and historical reproductions, you are treated to a thorough retelling of Albania's ancient history.  The crowning jewel of the museum, however, is the panoramic views from the building's rooftop terrace.  From here you can see to the Adriatic and beyond.  (Sidney, of course, is partial to the spring fed water fountain that is built into the side of the museum's exterior walls).

The Ottoman Bazaar

A well preserved stone lined Ottoman Bazaar serves as the heart of the tourist district.  Here aggressive merchants invite you into their shops to view their wares. Some of the goods are tacky- coffee mugs and magnets sporting the faces of Enver Hoxha, the late dictator, and Sali Berisha, the long time Prime Minister. Soviet era military memorabilia (a helmet with a bullet hole??) shares shelf space with hand carved olive wood bowls and old rusted irons.  Other items are uniquely Albanian.Where else can you get a hand woven rug that sports both the Albanian and American flags and stone ashtrays shaped like the ubiquitous Albanian bunkers? Whatever your fancy; whether it be traditional wedding costumes, felted wool slippers and hats, hand embroidered tablecloths, antique dowry chests, or silver filigree jewelry, you can buy it here. Haggling is welcome as are Euros or even American dollars. You will be promised a deal because you are a "special friend".  If you have money to spend and want to shop, the Ottoman Bazaar is the place to go.

Entertaining visitors

This would not be an Albanian town if it wasn't filled with smoke filled cafes and restaurants.  You don't go to Kruja because you want fine dining.  Whether tucked into nooks in the bazaar or perched a top the castle ruins, Kruja has its share of restaurants with menus boasting "traditional Albanian cuisines".  Roasted lamb and village chicken (whole roasted chicken served over heavily salted rice) accompany whatever grilled vegetable is in season.  As is the case in all restaurants in this country, pizza is always an option (and one usually taken by the Brown boys). Harsh tasting red wine and raki are the drinks of choice.  The often mediocre quality of the food is quickly forgotten since the scenic views are the real reason for your visit.

Kruja seems to have a little something for everyone and that is why we keep going back.  So be forewarned, if you come visit us, we will be taking you to Kruja.