Awash In A Sea Of Belgian Black, Yellow & Red

Maybe I'm missing the patriotic gene (and I don't think so) but I've never felt compelled to wrap myself in the American flag. I've also never felt the need to wear the flag as an accessory (which according to Congressional law is actually a violation of flag etiquette) nor have I draped the flag over my car and driven down the streets. Call me boring but the closest I've come has been to hang an American flag in front of our house(s) in America. But apparently I am in the minority here.

When we were in Albania I thought the locals were a bit crazy in their love for everything red and black and Albanian flag related. And during their centennial celebration for independence, it felt as though every inch of the country was draped in the ubiquitous red and black double headed eagle flags. It was simply over the top. Prior to that time it had never even dawned on me that someone would shrink wrap their car or a high rise building (or the Parliament building for that matter) in their national flag but apparently not doing so in Albania was the exception rather than the rule. And I quickly lost count of the number of cars speeding down the streets streaming large flags in their wake and the number of young men hanging out the windows and sunroofs waving the said flags. You needed to see pictures of it all to believe it and I honestly thought I'd never see anything like it again. But then we moved to Belgium and the race for the World Cup kicked off.......

I was aware of the hype leading up to the Belgian Red Devil's initial game against Algeria. What I hadn't expected was the crazed antics of the fans. The game was broadcast on large screens in a public square here in Mons but for a variety of reasons we didn't plan on attending. We did have the game playing on the television at home and watched it in bits and spurts as we went about our normal evening routine. But even without watching we knew the minute the game was over with Belgium coming out as the victors. The sound of horns and screaming immediately filled the air and within minutes of the game's finale our narrow one-way street was filled with speeding cars draped in Belgian flags careening by. I had unknowingly chosen this exact moment to go for a post-dinner walk through the neighborhood and was quickly swept up into the wave of crowds that were moving through the streets and screaming with excitement. Black, yellow and red was everywhere from leis and wigs to flags, face and body paint,  banners, clothing (including a rather tiny bikini worn by a big bellied man). And it wasn't just the "young" people who were partaking in the celebrations; everyone from babies to the elderly was in on the action. And because this is Belgium I imagine that most of these actions were fueled by a wee bit of beer. As relative newcomers to the country the celebrations were both amazing and a bit scary.

The celebrations lasted well into the night. The next  morning Sidney informed me that, the night before, he had stood at his bedroom window and watched "cars and Belgian flags and people hanging out of cars drive by over and over". (He also informed me that people weren't wearing their seat belts and their Mommas would be angry that they were hanging out of the windows because it is dangerous). And sadly enough, he wasn't kidding. I was practically side swiped on the sidewalk in front of our house when a young woman draped in a Belgian flag flung herself out the window as the car sped by. The parade of Belgian pride lasted into the wee hours of the morning. But this was just Belgium's first game in the lead up to the actual World Cup finale. At a minimum they have at least two more games to play but because of their win the other night, it is probably more. I'm not sure I even want to contemplate what future wins will mean in terms of celebrations.

So I suppose that given the time and my environment, my only option is to.........

 minus the black, yellow and red flags of course.

Football Fever

Football fever has struck here in Belgium and our house has not exempt. By football I am referring to European football, a.k.a. soccer in the United States. Maybe it is because the United States has the National Football League, that padded, helmeted, testosterone driven sport that is as American as apple pie, that what the rest of the world considers football has never really caught on there. (There are teams but by the national team coach's own admission, they aren't very good). But here in Europe, and the rest of the world for that matter, football is big business year around. And during the World Cup, it is all that everyone here is talking about.

From an early age kids in Europe learn to play football. Back in Albania Sidney was just learning to walk but he was in the street kicking a football around with the neighborhood kids. Every community had pick up games for players of all ages and just about any semi-open surface could be jury-rigged into a football field. I have yet to visit a European city or town that didn't have at least one football stadium. (And even in Albania, where reliable electricity wasn't a guarantee, these stadiums not only had lights but giant generators ready to fuel them if need be). Games draw mobs of often unruly spectators all rooting for their hometown team and for those who can't secure tickets restaurants, cafes, and pubs will set up screens to appease their fans. We've even joined friends and been a part of the crowd cheering on the game. It seems as though everyone is either playing or watching the sport. In fact, according to FIFA, the international organization that regulates football, there are 265 million football players around the world making it the single largest sport across the globe. Yes indeed, football is big business.

Whereas the National Football League has an annual Super Bowl, the World Cup, the granddaddy of football, occurs once every four years. 2014 is a World Cup year and as such, this summer Brazil is hosting the games. As with all high profile, extraordinarily expensive events, much controversy surrounds the event. Proponents await anxiously for the games to begin and vie for over priced tickets while opponents cite everything from corruption and the waste of money to human rights violations are reasons a country should not host the games. But love it or hate it, for me there is something wonderful about seeing teams from across the globe descending in a single location and playing a game that they love. Perhaps football is the great equalizer.

Living in an international community in Belgium I am feeling and seeing the sense of excitement on a daily basis. In the weeks and yes, even months leading up to the World Cup, people were talking about the big game. I honestly have no idea whether Belgium's team stands a chance at winning but regardless of this, Belgian football pride has been prominently displayed. The local grocery stores have been running promotions supporting the Belgian Red Devils and media coverage was extensive when the team boarded their plane to fly to Brazil. Flags and banners are prominently displayed in cafes and restaurants and in the past few weeks these flags have been hanging from the windows of private residences. Cars are even sporting black, yellow and red side mirror wraps in honor of the Belgian team. (Maybe I am missing out on the latest trend but I had never seen such a thing until they started appearing a few weeks ago). I've even seen otherwise fashionably dressed women wearing plastic black, yellow and red leis around their necks. Apparently everyone is getting in on the games.

But because we are in a community surrounded by people from so many other countries, the Belgian team isn't the only one people are rooting for. Each country represented here is hosting their own events when their teams are playing and inviting others to join them. Facebook pages are filled with commentary about good and bad plays and calls. Even those countries without representation in our community (Ivory Coast or Uruguay anyone?) have fans. I must admit, it is all kind of exciting. While we haven't been staying up into the wee hours to watch the games (well I haven't been anyway), we have been catching as many as we can. Each morning Sidney is asking when he can watch football (if we slip up and call it soccer he is quick to correct us with his newly found Belgian-French accent). While he waits for a game to begin he kicks his own football around in the yard then reenacts the kicks, slides, and trips of the players while the game is on. Who needs instant replay when this kid is around? Do we have a favorite team? Not really. I have a tendency to root for the underdog but I guess it all depends upon who is actually playing at the moment. And the fact is that it really doesn't matter. Because at the end of the day it is the excitement of the game that is so contagious.

Partaking in a European Pastime

Regardless of where I am living, I'm not a huge spectator sports fan.  When we lived in Norfolk- a city devoid of any professional sports teams- we would occasionally attend a Norfolk Tides game with friends.  This Triple-A baseball team was affiliated with the Baltimore Orioles so Glenn would root for them under the auspices of cheering on his hometown team. In reality, we attended these games as social outings with friends and coworkers since neither of us had a real interest in the game's outcome.  Growing up in New England I was, by default, a Boston Red Sox, Boston Celtics, and New England Patriots fan.  Of course, this was during the time when these teams were in the midst of years long losing streaks.  (It wasn't until after I actually moved away from New England that they all began to have winning seasons.  I were the superstitious type, I would say that my presence in New England brought them bad luck).

Upon moving to Albania, it quickly became clear to us that football, or what we Americans call soccer, is a national obsession throughout Europe.  I knew football was a big deal here but didn't realize how important it was.  Even in Albania, a country whose national team is never a contender for an international title, football is popular.  Regardless of their size, it appears that every city and town in Albania has at least one football stadium (Tirana has two!).  Even more telling, when the rest of the city is shrouded in darkness due to power outages, night games in these stadiums are well lit.  Boys start playing football at a young age here (it always seems to be boys since I have yet to see any girls playing).  Whether it is young boys kicking the ball on our street or older youth playing pick up games in the dirt field in the neighborhood, everyone seems to be playing football.  Those who aren't playing are watching- either in the stands or on television in smoked filled cafes.  Football truly is a national pastime.

In Europe, the Super Bowl of football is the Euro Cup.   Buzz about the Euro Cup had been building in recent weeks as national teams dropped from Cup contention.  In coffee bars and on the street, people have been talking about which team was favored to win.  Much like fall and winter Sundays in the U.S. when Americans plan their activities around their football team's kick off time, Europeans do the same.  Football is such serious business here that the playoff schedule became a part of the discussions when planning the Embassy's Independence Day celebration; if a playoff game or (gasp) the finale coincided with our reception, which event would people chose to attend? (Fortunately there wasn't a conflict as the final game took place two days after our event).  Last week Glenn and I found ourselves in Dubrovnik, Croatia on the evening of a semi-final game.  Every public square and outdoor cafe in the old city was filled with chairs and large screen televisions as Europeans of all nationalities cheered Italy on in their victory over Germany.  I think it was at this moment that I truly realized that this was more than just a game- pride and national bragging rights were at stake.

This past Sunday night we watched the Euro Cup finale between Italy and Spain with a group of our international friends.  In typical Albanian fashion we met at a local restaurant where large screen televisions had been set up on the outside patio which made for optimum viewing.  Much to our own chagrin, but to the delight of our friends, we brought Sidney with us to watch the game that began at 2045.  (Even worse, we had been preparing for this night by delaying and extending his nap time over the course of two days with the hope that he would want to stay awake for the late game- he did).  We happened to be in good company as the playground adjacent the restaurant was filled with toddlers running around long after the hour that should have found them asleep in bed.  Sidney joined in the fray befriending a gaggle of Albanian boys who spent the first half of the game running and climbing as only boys can.  The entire scene was loud, smoky, humid, and classically European.  Italian fans, including our entire group that included two Italians, outnumbered Spain's so the shouting throughout the game was more out of dismay rather than joy as Spain scored four unanswered goals.  


Although the final results weren't what we had hoped they would be it was a fun way to spend a European evening.  Next up- watching a live football game in person.  After all, Tirana has two stadiums for us to chose from.