Did Somebody Say Cookie: A Visit To Jules Destrooper

Belgium is awash with delicious food and drink. Chocolate and beer top the list but artisanal cheeses and sausages, moule and frites (mussels and fries) and crusty breads are also highly rated. Belgium is a county deep entrenched in food traditions so it should come as no surprise that another "must try" food item here in Belgium are the rich buttery cookies made by Jules Destrooper.

Original cookie presses

Jules Destrooper has been baking buttery cookies since 1886. From the beginning the bakery only used all natural ingredients and relied heavily upon rich butter (and this is still evident today since the air surrounding the factory bears the distinct aroma of melted butter). The first cookie made was an almond thin which within a few short years earned international recognition. The cookie line soon expanded to include a variety of butter wafers and the family owned business took off from there. Perhaps the most well known cookie flavor is speculoos, a spicy cinnamon infused butter cookie. Jules Destrooper began producing the cookie in 1970 but its origins are said to date back to the 17th Century with the import of spices due to the founding of the East India Trading Company. Today the bakery remains family owned and produces eighteen types of "biscuits" in addition to their creamy speculoos spread and their speculoos infused ice cream. Additionally Jules Destrooper has been working to develop more environmentally friendly packaging and they partner with local non-governmental organizations that support local residents with developmental disabilities and children with cancer throughout Belgium.

Like so many of Belgium's other great treasures, the Jules Destrooper cookie factory and visitors center is tucked away in small, off the beaten path Belgian town leading visitors (or at least myself) to wonder whether or not I am going on a wild goose chase. Our route had us trailing more than one tractor through rolling farmland dotted with World War I era Commonwealth graves (we were in the outskirts of Ypers after all), through quaint villages and over narrow cobblestone roads before we reached what is today the very modern glass fronted headquarters of Jules Destrooper. And

One of the interactive cookie games

while the cookie recipes may be traditional, what you find inside is thoroughly modern.

On a self guided tour (everything is translated into French, Dutch and English), visitors have the opportunity to learn about the history of Jules Destrooper and how the cookies have been and continue to be made. Visitors are able to view the ingredients in their natural, pre-cookie form, see how the cookies were first pressed and cut and compare them to how the process takes place today. (The difference really isn't that great). They can peek down into the factory floor and see cookies being packaged for shipping. There is a well done tri-lingual video that explains the entire history and cookie making process. But best of all, the exhibits are incredibly hands on. Kids of all ages can test the cookie irons for themselves and even play interactive games involving the various cookies. And of course no tour would be complete without the opportunity to sample the products. A tasting cafe features a variety of cookies as well as their famous speculoos and even speculoos flavored ice cream as well as delicious coffee for the adults and juice boxes for the kids.

The little village of Lo might be a bit out of the way but thanks to Jules Destrooper it has so much to offer. So if you're in the Ypers area or are simply looking for a tasty excursion, check out these cookies. Your taste buds will thank you even if your waistline doesn't.

The tasting cafe at the end of the tour

If you go:

Jules Destrooper Cookie Factory
Gravestraat 5
8647 Lo, Belgium
+32 58 28 09 33
bezoekerscentrum@destrooper.be
www.destrooper.be

Tours offered Monday-Saturday from 09:30-12:30 & 13.30-17.30; closed Friday mornings
Admission: Adults 5 Euro, Children under 6 Free, Ages 7-12 3 Euro

Wordless Wednesday: Botanical Escape

A Date With Van Gogh

This year Mons is a European Capital of Culture and with that designation comes an entire year of cultural activities right here in our little part of Belgium. Earlier this winter we attended Illumination, the kick off event for this year's festivities and most recently we took in a Van Gogh exhibit at BAM, Mons' own modern art museum.

Van Gogh has been all of the rage this year. Sidney's kindergarten class has been studying Van Gogh since the beginning of the year. They've been looking at his art work, making their own five year old renditions of his sunflower paintings and even piled onto a bus and took a field trip to see the exhibit when it first opened. Sidney came home telling us that it was "the best field trip ever" and he wanted to take his father and I there to see Van Gogh's work. So this past weekend we did just that. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

You might ask yourself why Van Gogh in Mons? Well the answer is that Vincent Van Gogh is actually a product of Mons. Van Gogh had a short but turbulent life which lasted a mere 37 years. During this time he toiled with various professions: art dealer, teacher, book seller and lay preacher before focusing on his art work. Between December 1878 and October 1880 Van Gogh lived in the Borinage mining region (the area surrounding Mons) and worked as an evangelist missionary but it was during this time that he developed his artistic ideology. His early work was rather primitive and reflected the world he saw around him; miners and their families, hardscrabble villages and Belgian landscapes were the subjects of his earliest drawings and paintings. His work reflected the everyday realities of miners, peasants and weavers and by all intensive purposes was quite grim. But his work reflected the times and his perspective on the world and although his time in Mons was brief it shaped the rest of his career as an artist.

The BAM exhibit is entitled "Van Gogh in the Borinage: The Birth of an Artist" and features his early work, much of which was produced right here in Mons. The exhibit is comprised of a combination of original work and reproductions done in oils, watercolors, pencil and even woodcarving.  Many of the pieces are copies of the works of artists he admired, including Jean-Francois Millet, and visitors can clearly see the progression of his skills as they walk through the exhibit. An early work entitled "The Hag" depicted an old beaten down horse. On one hand I don't think it is a particularly artistic or even well done painting but one does get the sense that the horse had led a hard life. Later paintings of animals are more sophisticated and well done, thus reflecting his evolution as an artist. Personally, I am an admirer of Van Gogh's later works but it was interesting to see how his skills truly did develop over time. More often than not we only have the opportunity to view masterpieces and never get a glimpse of where the artist came from when they were getting their start. With this Van Gogh exhibit we are given just that and for that reason alone, a visit to the BAM is well worth it.

The Van Gogh exhibit is temporary, with many of the pieces on loan from the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam and will be at BAM through the middle of May so now is the time to visit. If you miss this exhibit not to fear; other temporary exhibits will follow.

If you go:
BAM
Rue Neuve 8
7000 Mons, Belgium
Open Tuesday-Sunday 12:00-18:00
www.bam.mons.be


You can also visit the Van Gogh House in neighboring Cuesmes
Maison Van Gogh
Rue du Pavillon 3
7033 Cuesmes, Belgium
www.maisonvangogh.mons.be
Open Tuesday-Sunday 12:00-18:00

Food For Thought; Thoughts On Food

I've been thinking about food a lot recently. Not necessarily about specific recipes and meals but rather about how food is produced, how and where we buy our food and what it all means. Food is one of life's necessities that everyone, regardless of where we live, our race or socio-economic status, individual likes or dislikes, needs to survive. Some people have an abundance of food while others regularly go hungry. Some people live to eat while others eat to live. Simply put, food is something we all need and rely upon for our survival. Because of this food should be the great equalizer but sadly, it is not. Rather attitudes towards food and access to food are often the issues that divide us the most.

The topic in my French class for the past few weeks has been food. In learning the words for various types of food, we've been discussing how and where to shop for items both locally and in our home countries. Half of my class if comprised of Americans with the other half hailing from a mix of European countries. Although I was already aware of this on some level, it was quickly reaffirmed that so many Europeans shop for their food in local markets whereas us Americans tend to rely on supermarkets and big box stores for our daily nourishment. Urban areas can be food deserts and community markets, filled with organic produce are much more sporadic and difficult to find, are often located in more affluent neighborhoods and have prices that put the freshest of fruits and vegetables out of reach for many consumers. I'm a huge fan of the farm share trend but the often significant financial layout required to "buy in" to them at the beginning of the season makes them cost prohibitive for many American families. Class conversations quickly made it apparent that the differences between food resourcing in America and in Europe and what and how we eat are as far apart as the ocean that separates us.

Above all, as humans we seem to be creatures of habit. We crave the familiar and seek it out. More often than not we want, no demand, convenience. This probably explains why so many American military families posted overseas actively seek out their military commissaries (a.k.a. grocery stores stocked with all of the conveniences and foods from home) for a little piece of well traveled, overly processed comfort food from home. It is familiar, it is comfortable and it is how we most likely shopped and ate back home. If we grew up in households where convenience foods were the norm odds are we live the same was as adults. If we grew up eating fresh vegetables instead of canned, enjoyed home cooked meals eaten around the dinner table and had sugary snacks were kept at a minimum, we are probably recreating that lifestyle in our own homes. If our parents cooked we are more likely to cook ourselves. Perhaps this is why eating and shopping local remains the norm in Europe since the tradition of village markets, local farms and family dinner being events for all ages are the norm rather than a trend. This may be a broad sweeping statement on my part but I in my experience, access to quality food is less of a class issue in Europe than it is in America. I  feel as though quality food for people from all walks of live is valued much more in Europe than it is in America. I love that about Europe and it makes me feel a bit sad about America.

And that brings me to where I am now. Shopping "like a European" is a habit that I have fallen in love with and am increasingly practicing in my own household. With two different expansive markets held in my neighborhood each week and others held in neighboring towns daily, shopping at these local markets is the easiest food option for me. And as I sit here and type this, I have homemade pizza dough rising for tonight's dinner. The flour and yeast were purchased at my local Belgian supermarket but the toppings--fresh cheese, locally made sausage, fresh artichokes, tomatoes and herbs--were all purchased at my local market. For the most part I know where my food came from--here in Belgium as well as neighboring France and the Netherlands. It is local and fresh and minimally processed. And this is how my family eats on most days. The source of  my food is important to me and regardless of where I am living, I will go out of my way to buy from fresh and local sources.

But all of my food choices are clearly ones of class and privilege. I have the means, both financially and time wise, to decide where and how I will shop. I can afford to shop for locally grown organic produce, which here in Europe is often cheaper than mass produced and imported items. And because I am currently living in Europe all of this great quality food is literally sitting at my doorstep. I am also quite positive that once we are back in America we will continue to shop and eat the way we do now. If that means trekking out to a farm to buy organic milk or buying into a farm share each spring, it is something that I will do.

Open For The Season: Pairi Daiza

Feeding the monkeys is a favorite stop

The best zoo I have ever visited is right in our Belgian back yard.  We were told about the zoo by several people the minute we arrived in  Belgium with everyone telling us how wonderful it was. There was so much hype around the zoo that I found myself wondering if it was really as good as everyone was saying. I found out that it is and others agree since it was named the most beautiful park and best zoo in Belgium in 2014 and the best theme park in 2013. In a country filled with parks these recognitions are definitely something to brag about.

Actually, to call Pairi Daiza a zoo isn't accurate since it is a zoo and so much more. It is a botanical garden and international cultural showcase. And best of all it is located fifteen minutes from our house making both day long and last minute visits easy. In fact, since it reopened for the season early last month Pairi Daiza it has become our favorite place to visit. We've bought season passes and have started stopping by for the afternoon or just a an hour or so. There is so much to see and despite our repeated visits, we have yet to experience the entire zoo. It is that big and that amazing.

Today Pairi Daiza is a 140 acre zoo and botanical garden that is home to 4,000 animals- from zebras and panda bears to kangaroos, monkeys and hundreds of birds, they all live here. There is even a small aquarium, complete with seals and penguins. But the zoo grounds, located in the midst of rolling farmland, is actually on the grounds of the old Cistercian Cambron Abbey. The old abbey tower remains as the centerpiece of the park, looming over the lush grounds and serving as a geographic landmark since it is easy to get lost amongst the maze of pathways, ponds, and animals. But to get a bird's eye view of the entire grounds, a rope walk spanning high over much of the park is the way to go. My fearless little boy loves it--especially making the narrow wooden and rope walkway bounce uncontrollably--and it is now the first, and sometimes last, place we visit upon arriving.

The old abbey tower

The first thing I noticed about Pairi Daiza is that the animals have so much space to wander around and in some cases are free to share space with their human visitors. Regal peacocks stroll the ground and while visiting "the land down under" we found only a low guardrail separating ourselves from the kangaroos. Lush vegetation lined pathways connect each world garden with the next. In one moment you may be in an immortal Chinese city complete with giant pandas and the next you have wandered into an African stilt village or a Balinese temple surrounded by elephants. Monkeys swing overhead and if you visit during feeding time the monkeys will come right up and eat out of your hands. (This has become a favorite activity for our family). Wandering around one of the many lagoons you encounter birds-giant pelicans, bright pink flamingos, ducks of all kinds, herons, and eagles wandering around the paths, swimming in the water, or soaring overhead. There are also several large caged aviaries where visitors share space with smaller, more colorful birds. I'm not a fan of the avian world but even I find it really cool to be so up close and personal with these colorful feathered creatures.

One of the smallest residents enjoying a
rare sunny moment

African stilt village

And because this is Europe Pairi Daiza has two other features that are rarely found in American zoos. First there are giant playgrounds, both outside and in (in consideration to the often inclement Belgian weather) where kids can run, jump, and climb to their heart's content and burn off energy. The second feature that I love is the food. Yes, you will find your typical park food of grilled hotdogs and hamburgers here but you will also find sushi, Italian and Chinese foods, traditional Belgian fare, and African delicacies. And because this is Belgium all of the food can all be washed down with the zoo's own brewed beer. Have you ever wanted to participate in a traditional tea ceremony? You can do it here. (You can also get a fish pedicure if that is your thing).

There really is something for everyone here and I know we've only just begun to explore and experience everything Pairi Daiza has to offer. In fact, rain or shine its going to be a great place to spend our summer days.

Bright koi frolicking near the immortal city

You never know what you will find hiding
amongst the trees

Bright birds

Zebras

If you go:

Pairi Daiza
Domaine de Cambron
B-7940 Brugelette Belgium
+ 32 (0) 68 250 850
www.pairidaiza.eu/en
Open April-November daily from 10:00-18:00, later during the summer
Adults: 27 Euro, children 3-12 , 22 Euro, free under 3

Our Belgian Beer Road: Of Trolls & Bush

The beer & the glass

With this beer, it started with the glass. Well actually it started shortly after our arrival in Belgium with an inquiry (in English) to the French only speaking waiter as to whether the Bush beer on the menu was an import from America. Glenn's question was met with a blank stare so he took a gamble and ordered it any way. Much to his relief it wasn't the American version and it arrived in its own crackle texture glass. He was immediately enamored by both the beer and the glass so naturally we had to go to the source.

Today, the "source" is a brassarie located in rural village of Pipaix in Hainaut Province Belgium. (The attached restaurant serves traditional Belgian foods and is well worth a visit). Brassarie Dubuisson, which also brews some beers under the Bush label, was founded in 1769 on a farm with the sole intent of brewing beer for consumption by its farm workers and residents of the surrounding village. Through the years the brewery and farm remained in the family and in the 1930s descendants of the founders gave up farming in favor of expanding their brewery and producing beer on a full time basis. Today the brewery remains family owned and operated and claims to be the oldest and most traditional brewery in Wallonia.

Visitors can eat in the brassarie and shop for beer throughout the week but if you want to take a tour of the facilities, you must visit during the weekend. As is fitting for a guided trip through a brewery, the tour starts and ends with beer tastings. Six to be exact with the opportunity to try three different types of beer while watching a film showcasing the history of the brewery (the film is offered in French, Flemmish and English depending upon the audience) then three more beers at the conclusion of the tour. (Before you hop in your car to drive home????). The film is quite informative, walking visitors through the founding of the brewery through its modernization and expansion.

Next up the fun begins with the actual tour of the brewery. We descended down a narrow staircase to the beer cellar were wooden casts used to age some of the beers are stored in the cool stone caverns below the brewery. The cellars are also immediately adjacent to the nearby road and we could both hear and feel the traffic as it passed by. Row upon row of casks line the room. When we exit the cellar we find ourselves outside in the center courtyard which is the heart of the brewery complex. Next up is a quick walk through of the original brewery before we move onto the thoroughly modern section of the brewery where today's beer are produced. (I can't help but think of the classic American television show Laverne & Shirley whenever I walk through a bottling room). And then of course we conclude our tour back in the tasting room sampling three more types of beer. For me, the single thing that distinguishes this brewery from others we have visited, is its efforts to be environmentally friendly. Despite Belgium's famous lack of sun, solar panels cover 900 square meters of the newly constructed storage facility.

Today Dubuisson brews over a dozen types of beer. Since 2013, over 10 million liters of beer are produced annually, with 40% of it being exported throughout Europe, North America, Asia and Australia. With such a variety of beers, it is always hard to identify a favorite. Although I generally prefer darker beers, their Peche Mel, or peach beer, is surprisingly delicious and refreshing. But the seasonal Noel beer is also pretty good. As is the Prestige....... All of the beers are quite strong by American standards so a little does go a long way. But if you find yourself in the area, do stop by. You can take a tour, sample a variety of beers and eat a really good meal. Then you can decide on your favorites (and there is no need to pick just one) and buy some to bring home. Just don't forget to buy the coordinating glasses as well. They simply make the beer drinking experience so much better and the Bush glass is by far one of the coolest I've ever seen.

The old beer wagon

and a very modern production line

If you go:

Brassarie Dubuisson
Chaussee de Mons 32
7904 Pipaix, Belgium
www.dubuisson.com
+32 69 66 17 27
Food served from 12.00-15.00 & 19.00-22.00, closed Mondays
Tours offered weekends at 15.00

Wordless Wednesday: Camouflage

Can you see me? Can you see my friend?