Wordless Wednesday: Run Forrest, Run

Wordless Wednesday: Trapped

(Mostly) Wordless Wednesday: Maine Snow Days

For those of us living in places where "snow" means a few wet flakes that disappear within hours, if not minutes, here is a snowy treat courtesy of my mom's backyard in Maine. Now this is winter. Do I miss it? I'm surprised to say I do.

Wordless Wednesday: Mussels

Celebrating the return of mussel season

Made For You And Me: A Book Review

So what happens when you are an avid reader who accidentally leaves your e-reader at home when you set off for a month long trip? First you bemoan your forgetfulness and think you can forgo reading for the month then in literary desperation, grab the first book you see on the shelf by the checkout line.Yes, this happened to me and the book I grabbed, Made For You And Me by Caitlen Shetterly turned out to be one of the best books I've read in a long time. From the first page this book touched me and as I turned the pages I found myself laughing, crying, relating to the words on the page.

For Shetterly, like so many people of my generation, the horrific events surround September 11th forced her to step back and reassess her life. In the aftermath of it all she left New York City and returned to her home state of Maine to write, act and have that simpler way of life that so many people crave. From the outside it often feels unattainable yet it is the way many Mainers live. She settled into a life she loved but then fell in love and with her husband had a California dream. Unlike like many people who only fantasize about following their dreams, they took the jump only to realize that dreams often fall short of what you hope they will be. With an economy in a downward spiral careers as freelancers is a tough route to take and for the Slatterlys it proved to be difficult. After a year of downs, ups and more downs they headed back to Maine to yet another unknown. And this memoir, which started out as an audio blog for NPR, traces the journey from east to west and back again.

As I read the book I felt myself feeling so many emotions; I was envious of Shetterly for following her dream not only once but twice. Each time she followed her passion through the thick and thin. I only wish I had the same level of daring to do the same. I laughed along with her as she discovered the quirkiness of America. Encountering an (in)famous Chick-Fil-a sandwich for the first time? This Mainer has been there and done that, wondering who a single pickle slice constitutes as dressing up a chicken patty. Living in questionable apartments in strange neighborhoods; done that too as have many people I know. Despite our education and work experience many of us have been faced with tough times during an even tougher economy. While never facing the exact circumstances as Shetterly I've asked myself whether a particular job is worth taking just because it is a job. And the relationship between adult children and their parents; who hasn't been there as well? I could go on.....

But for me this book is a great read because it is real. It isn't sugar coated nor is it a pity party; rather it is a story of my generation, one that many of us can and do relate to. I'll be honest, the older I get the more I find myself thinking about and wanting these same things (sans the acting part) that Shetterly does. Perhaps my recent trip to Maine only reaffirmed these feelings for me but in my mind a good book should make you pause and think and this book did just that. (Of course, any time I go on vacation I find myself thinking about and reflecting upon the choices I have made in life so perhaps my reading this book while on vacation is timely). Don't wait until you are on vacation or desperate for reading material to pick up this book. It is worth seeking out now.

Beacons Of Light

Owls Head Lighthouse

Lighthouses are as synonymous with Maine as lobsters. They are a direct linkage to the state's long history and connection with the sea. And with close to 1500 miles of craggy coastline (this figure includes all tidal areas including the numerous inlets and coves and all of the off shore islands), lighthouses have often been the only thing that has protected sailors from the dangerous rocky cliffs and shoals lining Maine's coast. And there really is something majestic about these iconic, often white towers perched atop cliffs or along rocky shores.

Today there are 57 active lighthouses protecting sailors along Maine's coast. At one time they were all manned by hearty lighthouse keepers who kept the beacons glowing year around. Growing up I remember reading stories about children of earlier times living in isolated lighthouses along the coast where their fathers were the light keepers and thinking about what an adventure it must have been.  Light keeping was often a family affair with the entire family sharing in the responsibilities of keeping the lights on. (In my mind it was like the Maine version of Little House on the Prairie). Today, however, all of the lighthouses are automated with former living quarters either being boarded up or turned into museums.  It is virtually impossible to travel up the coast or out to the islands without encountering a lighthouse or two. Fortunately for lighthouse enthusiasts many of Maine's lighthouses are accessible to the public and exploring them is a great way to spend a summer day. And that is just what I did recently when I set out to explore four of the lighthouses in Midcoast Maine.

Sitting at the mouth of Camden Harbor, Curtis Island Lighthouse is only accessible by boat. Originally built in 1835 by the directive of Andrew Jackson and rebuilt in 1896, this lighthouse is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The island was originally called Negro Island after a local cook who resided there but later renamed in honor of longtime Camden resident Cyrus H.K. Curtis, publisher of The Saturday Evening Post. It was automated in 1972 but still serves as a welcoming beacon to  those who approach Camden from the sea. Because the lighthouse is not easily visible from land for years the only way I saw the lighthouse was through the aerial photographs that grace postcards and calendar pages. It was only when I was a teenager that I finally saw the lighthouse "in person" from the water. I've since discovered that there is a path leading to the shore on the outskirts of Camden from which the lighthouse is clearly visible. (And that is where I was able to take my own picture).

Curtis Island Lighthouse

The nearby Saint George Peninsula is home to two lighthouses that are easily accessible to visitors. Located in the Owls Head State Park, the current Owls Head Lighthouse was built in 1826, has never been rebuilt and automated in 1989, making it one of the last lighthouses to loose its light keeper. It is said to have gotten its name because people could see a giant bird face on the nearby rocks. There are numerous stories about rescues affiliated with the lighthouse including one where a couple who had been buried under a sheet of ice were saved by the lighthouse keeper in 1850. One lighthouse keeper's wife told a story about it being so cold that the entire bay between Owls Head and Vinalhaven Island froze over with horses and carriages being able to drive the 11 1/2 miles. Now that is cold!

Even people who have never been to Maine are probably familiar with the Marshall Point Lighthouse located just down the peninsula from Owls Head. The lighthouse, built in 1832, was featured in Tom Hanks' movie Forest Gump and stands at the narrow and rocky mouth of Port Clyde Harbor. Rather than being attached to the keeper's house, this lighthouse sits at the end of a wooden walkway, providing better visibility to passing ships. This is fortunate, since the light keeper's house burned after being struck by lightning in 1895. It was soon rebuilt and today the structure is home to a small museum.

Last but not least on my lighthouse tour is the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse. The 7/8 of a mile long granite breakwater was constructed between 1881 and 1899 in an effort to help shelter the harbor from incoming storms. A total of 700,000 tons of granite was used to build the breakwater. While the breakwater did provide shelter for the harbor, it initially proved to be a hazard to passing ships since it jutted out into the water without a beacon at the end. To this end a temporary beacon was placed at the end of the jetty with a lighthouse being constructed in 1902. Today visitors can walk, or hop along the large flat rocks, to the end of the jetty. I have fond memories of making this walk numerous times while I was growing up and during my most recent visit retraced my steps to the end. The reward of making it? Sitting in the shade of the lighthouse and watching the sailboats, ferries and lobster boats pass by.

Run Forest, run: Marshall Point Lighthouse

These are just a few of  Maine's storied lighthouses as there are 53 other lighthouses dotting the coast ready to be explored. So the next time you find yourself along the coast of Maine, take the time to get to know one or two of the lighthouses. Or check out the Maine Lighthouse Museum in nearby Rockland. And if you want to learn more about these or any of the other Maine lighthouses, Jeremy D'Entremont has researched and written an extensive history of these lighthouses, including notable rescues and the stories of some of the lighthouse keepers and their families that captures how important this lighthouse was to the area.

Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse

A Maine Way Of Life

When you think of Maine you think of lobster, right? After all, more lobsters are harvested in Maine than any other state in the country and her lobsters are famous worldwide (I am amazed at the number of these crustaceans I have seen gracing restaurant menus across the world) and are perhaps the most sought after dinner option for the thousands of tourists to flock to Maine each summer. But draped in plastic bibs how many people actually take the time to think about all of the work that went into moving their lobster from the sea to their table? Do they wonder about this back breaking Maine tradition that is older than the state itself?

Despite growing up in Maine and knowing families who made their livelihood by pulling lobsters from the water, I had never really given Maine's lobstering industry a lot of thought. But on a recent sunny afternoon I found myself sitting by the water watching two lobstermen hauling in their catches and began to think about how physically demanding the work really was. And then I thought about the tourists eating their "lazy man lobsters" (lobster meat that had been pulled from the shell before arriving at their table) and realized that so many of them just have no idea.

Traditional wooden lobster crates. Today
most have been replaced by more sea worthy
mental ones.

The relationship between Maine and lobsters dates back to the days before white settlers descended upon the area. Lobsters were so plentiful that Native Americans used them as fertilizer for their crops. By the time white settlers arrived lobsters were still being pulled by hand from tidal pools and were considered to be food of the peasants and served to prisoners and indentured servants. Imagine, a lobster dinner being considered a punishment rather than a treat. But gradually lobster became more of a luxury item and by the 1850s a formalized lobster industry developed in Maine with pounds--essentially floating tanks that hold the harvested lobsters--appearing in many harbors. These pounds allowed the industry to keep up with the ever growing demand for fresh lobster.

Today lobsters remain a highly regulated, major economic engine for Maine. Getting started as a lobsterman doesn't come cheap; it costs approximately $200,000 to fully equip a lobster boat with each trap and buoy costing around $80.00. Lobstermen are limited to the number of traps they can have in the water at any one time--800 and the area in which each lobsterman can drop traps is regulated as well. Feuds and even deaths have been known to occur over fishing territory. The number of licenses issued is regulated in order to prevent over fishing and in 2008 a total of 6,427 highly coveted licenses were issued. There are approximately 3 million traps hauling 123 million pounds of lobster a year from Maine's waters. In order to further prevent over harvesting, keepers must be of a certain size and cannot be females with eggs attached. When you take all of these regulations into consideration it is no wonder that the cost of your boiled lobster is high. After all, a lot of time and money goes into simply bringing it to your plate.  If you want more lobster facts, they can be found here.

As I watched the two lobstermen hauling their catches, I couldn't help but wonder whether fishing is all the luck of the draw. Both lobstermen were essentially pulling traps in the same location. The first lobsterman, hauling traps from what appeared to be a glorified dingy outfitted with a motor, seemed to be coming up empty with trap after trap. I watched him haul a good ten or so traps and never once did I see him remove a lobster from them. The second boat on the other hand, appeared to be having much more success. Painted a bright red and with a crew of two, each trap seemed to be yielding several lobsters. Some were thrown back, probably for size, but more were making it into the catch basket than not. Was this lobsterman simply having a lucky day? But what about when your income is based solely on what you pull out of the traps? Even without pulling a single lobster you are spending money on fuel and the upkeep of your boat. Add in the value of your time and not bringing home any lobster can be a costly day. On the flip side a large catch can equate into a successful pay day. And regardless of how large your catch is, the work is manual labor and simply back breaking. Even with the assistance of a winch repeatedly hauling the traps out of the water then throwing them back in day in and day out is hard. Really hard. But someone has to do it and in many cases lobstering is a tradition that has been passed down from one generation to the next. For some Mainers working in the lobster industry is the only thing their family knows and it is simply a way of life. Hopefully it is one that will continue for generations to come since the demand for these crustaceans doesn't appear to be easing up.

An iconic Maine harbor sight

Its a keeper. Pulling traps and measuring the lobsters for size.

Finally, for full disclosure, despite my Maine upbringing I've never really cared for lobster. But because it had been a long time since I had eaten any I gave it another go last week. And you know what? I still
don't like it. Call me weird but whether steamed, broiled or made into a salad I find lobster meat to be too rich and not all that flavorful. I'll stick to other ways of supporting the fishing industry and leave the lobster for those who really love it.

Eartha

The giant globe

Vacations are wonderful times to rediscover old places but they are also opportunities to discover new ones. And for me, my most recent discovery is Eartha at the DeLorme map store in Yarmouth, Maine. Having grown up in Maine I am familiar with DeLorme maps and their massive atlases which assisted us with the ins and outs of traveling long before GPS became an everyday technology. The battered and much used pale blue book of Maine maps was a mainstay in my mother's car and I remember spending hours leafing through its pages checking out places I had visited and ones I had never visited. (Those large blocks of Maine wilderness named in terms of township numbers rather than place names always intrigued me and I wondered whether they were real......They are....). In later years I remember a large storefront opening up on the Freeport-Yarmouth border. I was always in a rush heading to one location or another when I passed so I never stopped in but I wondered about the large globe that graced their multi-floor windows. And finally on my most recent drive by we stopped in and I was able to check out what this larger than life globe was all about.

Named Eartha, the globe was completed in 1998 and was awarded the still standing Guinness Book of World Records title of "the world's largest rotating and revolving globe" the following year. Weighing in at 5,600 pounds and with a surface area of 41 feet in diameter its scale is the equivalent of 1 inch to 16 miles on earth. It represents one of the largest computer mapping databases in the world and is comprised of 140 gigabytes of information. Trust me when I say that it is big. As if the size wasn't enough to be impressive, it rotates at a rate of 1 rotation every 18 minutes meaning you can sit on the viewing benches and watch the world slowly turn right before your eyes.

And the details on the globe include everything.  It includes shaded relief and colored bathymetry (for the ocean depth data) as well as information on road networks and urban areas around the world. We visited during the daylight hours but at night the globe is illuminated meaning drivers on the nearby Interstate 95 are treated to an almost other worldly view of their world as they pass on by. Now that's pretty cool. Best of all, stopping in to see the globe in person will cost you nothing. It is free and while there you can also visit the really cool gift shop and use their clean restrooms. Now how's that for a quick pit stop?

A little perspective; the globe viewed from three
stories high

If you go:
DeLorme Map Store
2 DeLorme Drive
Yarmouth, ME 04096
www.delorme.com/mapstore
207-846-7100

Hours vary but they are open most days

All I Could See From Where I Stood

The iconic view of Camden Harbor as seen from the top of Mt. Battie

For me, no visit home to Midcoast Maine is complete without a trip to the top of Mt. Battie. Perched on the edge of Penobscot Bay, Mt. Battie serves as a backdrop for the picturesque town of Camden and gives it her monicker of "where the mountains meet the sea". It is said to have served as the inspiration for Camden native and Pulitzer Prize winner Edna St. Vincent Millay's poem The Renascence. In fact, the view of the town from above is probably one of the most photographed images of Camden and is one that graces travel magazines and calendars year in and year out. It is also a place that I am intimately familiar with; a place I once called home.

Mt. Battie is located in Camden Hills State Park a 5,700 acre expanse where you can camp, hike, mountain bike, swim and simply enjoy the Maine coast. The mountain itself isn't that high, just 800 feet high, but on a clear day the views from the top make you feel as though you are much higher. A carriage road leading to the top of the mountain was built in 1897 with a privately owned hotel catering to the area's wealthy residents being constructed the following year and operated until it was torn down in 1920. A forest fire burned much of the summit in 1918 and in 1921 a 26 foot stone tower dedicated to "the services of the men and women of Camden in the World War, 1914-1918, was erected on the site of the hotel. The tower still stands today and offers those who climb its spiral staircase a 360 degree view of the area. In 1963 the state Park Commission built the 1.6 mile paved automobile road that brings the less athletically inclined to the summit. I've reached the top by both automobile and foot and regardless of how you do it once you crest the tree line, the views are spectacular.

So naturally I made it a point to make it to the top of Mt. Battie during my current visit to Maine. The first attempt was fogged out. Literally since heavy fog encased the entire town and the mountain making it impossible to see your hand in front of your face much less the scenery. The next attempt was a success with our being rewarded with sweeping views of Camden, Penobscot Bay and the off shore islands. The lingering fog hid our view of Mount Desert Island but the sights were beautiful just the same. No matter how many times I stand atop the mountain I am reminded of how beautiful the Midcoast region is. Having traveled across the globe and back I still feel the same. There really is no place like home and this is a place I will keep returning to over and over again.


So in honor of the view, here's an excerpt from Millay's famous poem The Renascence:

All I could see from where I stood
Was three long mountains and a wood;
I turned and looked the other way,
And saw three islands in the bay.
So with my eyes I traced the line
of the horizon thin and fine,
Straight around till I was come
Back to where I'd started from.

(Mostly) Wordless Wednesday: Lupines

A sure sign of summer in Maine:

Eating In Maine: A Book Review w/ A Touch Of Homesickness

Right about now I am feeling pretty homesick for Maine. Maybe it is the fact that it has been two years since I made a brief summer visit to the town where I grew up. Perhaps it is because we have another, much longer Maine trip looming on the horizon. Or perhaps it is the decidedly non- summer weather we have been experiencing here in Belgium that makes me crave a warm Maine summer day--the type that is cool and crisp in the morning and evening with just the right amount of heat in the middle of the day. Actually, I think it is the combination of all of the above. Add in the recent arrival of my long awaited Eating In Maine book by Maine food bloggers Jillian and Malcolm Bedell and I just can't wait to "go home." But that trip is still weeks away so in the meantime I've been fulfilling my Maine cravings with their book and enjoying every minute of it.

Now this isn't your ordinary cookbook; part travel guide and part restaurant reviews with 115 recipes (hence the cookbook part) and lots of personal commentary, it is everything I would expect from these two great bloggers. The unknowing might be surprised to learn that Maine has a burgeoning foodie scene but it does. I remember spending a considerable amount of time in Portland a few years ago and being surprised myself at the number of great, innovative restaurants that were available. (Hot Suppa was my go to lunch option during the month Sidney was in the hospital there). And the options aren't just limited to Portland. The Bedells capture these places in their book but also focus on the small, out of your way or casual (this picnic table) eateries that are Maine institutions.


In many respects reading this book (OK, drooling over the photographs) was a type of homecoming for me. Malcolm grew up in the same area as I did only a decade later. But his references to the Maine dining institutions brought all of the memories back for me. Pies at Moody's Diner (do you only get to choose one type?) and hot dogs cooked in peanut oil from Wasses Hot Dogs, (Glenn thought he had died and gone to heaven when I introduced him to this hot dog stand and to this day it is the first place we stop when we hit the Mid Coast area) are an important part of my childhood memories. And then you have Dysart's, the truck stop in Bangor, Maine where nothing tasted better than a hot open faced turkey sandwich after spending a week backpacking in Baxter State Park. These places aren't fancy and would probably be looked down upon by more sophisticated appetites but they are a part of my Maine experience. And then there are the recipes for whoopie pies and dishes that include Moxie. It really doesn't get more Maine than this.

This book not only leaves my feeling hungry but it has me wanting to both cook and eat out at the restaurants they recommend. I don't particularly care for lobster (I know, call me a bad Mainer) but the pictures, recipes and restaurant reviews have me craving a fresh lobster roll.  As for my other meals, I'm still undecided but the options really are limitless. In fact, in this day and age of e-readers, I'm going to allot some of my precious luggage weight to bringing this book to Maine with me. It may be too soon to start packing for the trip but I can certainly start planning my Maine meals and begin cooking my way through their recipes.

Maine Memories: Andre The Seal

I recently posted the above picture on my Facebook page and, as it had done for me when saw it, the picture immediately brought back so many childhood memories for those of us who grew up in Mid Coast Maine during the 1970s and 1980s. For those of you who aren't from the area or are too young to remember, this 1977 picture, courtesy of mainetoday.com, is of the famous Andre the Seal and his trainer Harry Goodrich. But for those of us who grew up during that time, who doesn't remember the seal?

A quick recap for those who aren't familiar with the story: Andre was an orphaned harbor seal who was rescued by Goodrich in 1961 off the coast of Rockport, Maine. By the time I "met" Andre he was spending his summers lounging and playing in a protected corral in Rockport harbor and winters in various New England aquariums. A highlight of any trip to the harbor was visiting during meal time where we could watch Goodrich throwing fish to a playful Andre. If he wasn't eating he might be simply basking in the sun or swimming in the harbor's cool waters. Being the first to spot the seal as he popped to the surface of the water became a game that my brother and I both wanted to win. To our parents, visiting Andre was free entertainment. For us kids, it was simply cool to see the famous seal. One of my most prized books as a child was A Seal Called Andre, Goodrich's children's book about his adventures with Andre. Andre died in 1986 at the age of twenty-five and I still remember the sadness I felt when I heard the news. (I have no idea if this is old for a seal--it probably is since one only has to watch a National Geographic special or two to see that the life of a normal seal is anything but easy). Over the years a movie has been made about Andre's story and a statue of the famous seal sits in the little park at the head of Rockport Harbor. Because of this, Andre lives on as a little bit of Maine history for my generation and generations to come.

Some of my fondest childhood memories are of visiting the statue both during our summer vacations to Maine and later as a local resident. Its been years since I've been back--probably the last time was when my brother got married in that very park during a particularly rainy October weekend. But our family has plans to visit Maine this summer and visiting Andre's statue, and introducing my son to one of my fondest childhood memories, is on the top of my to-do list. I'm feeling nostalgic (and a bit homesick) just thinking about it. How many days is it until July????

To read Andre's complete story, click here.

Welcome Autumn

The weather has finally turned cooler here in Tirana and I dare say that autumn is upon us.  Sure it warms up by mid day but the mornings and evenings are decidedly chilly.  We finally broke down last night and turned on the heat in a few rooms and will be digging out the space heater for our bathroom today. (The bathrooms in our Albanian house are all unheated which makes for some bone tingling showers in the morning).  It is now sweater weather so I've been breaking out all of my woolen items from their summer hibernation and thoughts are turning to the months to come.  I've turned the oven back on and have baking treats and cooking up a storm making the fall comfort foods I my body seems to be craving.  Yes folks, fall is definitely upon us. 

 

Camden, Maine in autumn

Autumn is actually my favorite season and there really is nothing like autumn in New England.  Because of this, fall is also the time of year I am the most homesick since I have great fall memories of growing up in New England.   As a child an annual fall chore in our household was cleaning up our tree filled yard.  My brother and I turned this chore into a game by jumping into the piles of crisp leaves for hours on end. Even today, while I'm unlikely to jump into piles of leaves, it is hard to resist the urge to give them a kick or two as I pass by.  In college, the Pioneer Valley was always a colorful mecca for leaf peepers** from all over the world.  The colors were undoubtedly beautiful and Mount Holyoke celebrated with the ultimate autumn event.   "Mountain Day", was a much anticipated day off from classes where the entire campus got out and enjoyed all that autumn in New England has to offer.  Some of my fondest college memories include eating Atkins cider donuts at the Summit House atop Mt. Holyoke. Mountain Day 2013 was this past week but even from half a world away I paused to take in the changing seasons and long for a cider donut or two.

Mount Holyoke in all its autumn glory

The Connecticut River

While I have yet to find foliage that even compares to the brightly colored hues of a New England fall, regardless of where we are in the world, the crispness of the autumn air is always the same.  Living in southern Virginia the changes were subtle but they were there none the less and with the large oak trees anchoring our property, the raking of leaves continued to be an autumn tradition.  The leaves aren't as colorful here in Albania; in fact, here in Tirana leaves tend to turn brown and whither on the trees before falling to the ground.  But fall is definitely in the air and no matter where I am currently calling home, I love this season.

**As defined by me:  Leaf peeper:  One who travels specifically to take in fall foliage.  

In Transit

A trip to Maine isn't complete without a stop at LL Bean

So what do you do when your life is in boxes and you have no place to live for a couple of weeks?  You cram all eight of your large checked bags, your six questionably sized carry-ons, and the "freebie" car seat into your tired SUV and hit the road to eat your way up and down the eastern seaboard.  

We've spent the past week meandering through my old  haunts and introducing Sidney to everything early summer in New England has to offer.  After leaving a scorching 100+ degree DC we arrived in Maine to definitely chilly temps. There is a reason fleece is part of the official state wardrobe.  Sidney had his first dip in the Atlantic Ocean (a definite shock to his little toes), sampled all things blueberry- ice cream, pie, soda, yogurt, fresh berries, and  muffins, dined on popovers at the iconic Jordon Pond House, shopped his way through LL Bean, and did battle with the largest black flies I have ever seen.  Yes we played tourists and I loved it.  The weather turned out so perfect that it has us wondering whether we could live there on a full time basis.  Like all New Englanders, these fleeting warm days of summer make me forget what the other nine and a half months of the year are like.

The most important part of our journey, however, was spending time with family.  Mimi, Grandpa, Uncle Stan, Aunt Jess, and the dog cousins entertained us, fed us, and were awake with us during the middle of the night - refusing to sleep episodes.  They didn't make any bones about the fact that while they were glad to see Glenn and myself, Sidney was the main attraction.  Saying good bye was bitter sweet but plane tickets to Albania are being purchased by all parties for fall and winter visits.

Visiting an old hangout

As we made our way south to Massachusetts we again encountered oppressive heat that felt more like DC.  We spent more time with family- Gigi, Great Uncle Bill and Aunt Sue, caught up with old college friends, and ate our way through the Pioneer Valley.  Rediscovering my college and early adulthood haunts with an 18 month in tow is certainly enlightening.  Who knew that so many of these places have high chairs, changing tables, and children's menus?  

Today we head further south to Maryland to spend time with Glenn's family.  We're naively hoping for cooler temperatures and a little boy who wants to sleep before 11 pm.  While we are excited about our next adventure, we're savoring our last days of our time here.  At this time next week we should be clearing customs in Albania and starting with the next phase of this adventure.