Memorial Day in Margraten

There was an American and Dutch flag
at the foot of every grave

Today is Memorial Day and as such, we spent yesterday doing what is becoming an annual tradition: attending a ceremony at an United States war cemetery. Last year we were at Flanders Field right here in Belgium. Since then we've visited the American Cemetery in Luxembourg and the hallowed grounds of Normandy so yesterday found us in the Netherlands at the cemetery in Margraten. And while visiting an American war cemetery is a humbling experience any time of the year, being there during a remembrance ceremony is beyond moving. It is a reminder of the sacrifices that have, and continue to be made, by our soldiers, sailors, airmen and marines in the name of liberty and freedom and it is something that must not be taken lightly. Regardless of how one feels about war, these men (and women) gave their lives so others could enjoy the freedoms we do today. And that was readily apparent when standing in the hilly and tranquil expanse of eastern Netherlands.

While we've visited many cemeteries and attended even more remembrance ceremonies, yesterday's was different. Perhaps it was because with over 8,300 marked graves the cemetery is large. Or maybe it is because World War II is actually recent history and veterans who fought in the War stood among us. Perhaps it is because of the the ongoing gratitude for the liberating army that is still expressed by the Dutch. This gratitude is demonstrated in part through the Dutch (and to a lesser extent German and Belgian) families who have adopted each and every grave. Adopted families care for the graves, visit and leave flowers and in many cases, have developed personal relationships with the families of the deceased who are unable to actually see their loved one's graves in person. Some of the adoptions have been passed down from one generation to the next and a few families have adopted more than one. There is even waiting list is maintained of those people who want to adopt. So actually, I think it was a combination of all of the above factors and then some that made yesterday's ceremony so moving.

The color guard

Dutch and American cadets in formation

The ongoing gratitude of the Dutch was discussed in a Washington Post article this morning. It is a powerful read and having been present at the mentioned ceremony it was all the more moving. Yes there were the typical speeches by politicians but intermingled with those were the personal stories of what the War and the cemetery means to generations of both Americans and Dutch.  It is one thing to read the words in the Post, but hearing Arthur Chotin share his story put a lump in my throat. Here was a 70 year old man whose entire life was shaped by the loss of his father when he was just an infant. And his story was only one poignant moment because there are thousands upon thousands of other stories that were shaped by, and continue to be affected by, the War.

Today, even as our country is in the midst of over a decade of on going war, many people feel distant from the battles that are being fought far from their homes. Perhaps it is too far away, too abstract, or doesn't seem pertinent to one's daily life. But yesterday, standing amongst both Dutch and American citizens I was reminded me yet again that no matter how far away it may be, war isn't a depersonalized abstract concept that only affects others for a brief moment in time. The actions and consequences of all those involved transcends countries and generations.

This is a lesson I share with my five year old son who currently loves to play soldier. I remind him that war isn't a game and has lasting consequences. He has heard me say this time and again and reiterates to me that he is only pretending because "war is scary". So as he stood at attention yesterday listening to Taps, I reminded him of this. And as the final note echoed through the cemetery he turned to me and told me how sad it was that so many soldiers had died. He was right of course but I also took that moment to remind him of the importance of remembering those who have given the ultimate sacrifice so the rest of us can enjoy the freedoms we have today. After all of these years Dutch still remember and so should we.

The Dutch Air Force fly over at the conclusion of the ceremony

If you go:
Netherlands American Cemetery
AM Begraafplaats 1
6269 NA Margraten
Netherlands
+31 43 45 82 208
www.abmc.gov

Open daily except for Christmas and New Years Days from 09.00-17.00

Free

Memorial Day On Flanders Field

For too many Americans Memorial Day is simply an extra day off from work. Ironically enough, schools and work are open here today but that doesn’t make the day any less significant for us. But because we wouldn’t be able to attend any Memorial Day celebrations today, we recognized the day yesterday through exploring the World War I battlefields of Ypres and then attending a ceremony at the Flanders Field American Cemetery in Waregem, Belgium. It was an emotional, moving, and historic way to spend such an important day. I’ll admit that while I am pretty well versed in World War II history, I don’t know nearly as much about World War I as I should. So this was a driving force in our heading to the battlefields from the Great War.

We started off by visiting the Canadian Hill 62 Sanctuary Wood memorial. On a cool Sunday morning we practically had the site to ourselves. Both the memorial and the nearby Sanctuary Wood Cemetery were eerily quiet as though they were reflecting the solemn nature of what had taken place here just one short century ago. Yes, it is so easy to forget that all of this carnage took place such a short time ago. In 1916 Canadian forces recaptured and held the area from the German forces. Because the hill is on higher ground, the Canadian occupation denied the German army a view of the nearby town of Ypres. At the nearby Sanctuary Wood Museum we tromped through the muddy twists and turns of some of the few remaining World War I trenches in Belgium. I never realized quite how many twists and turns they had until I stood above them looking down. Sidney and Glenn explored the dark and muddy tunnel and I simply marveled at the fact that we were literally standing on a battlefield where not so long ago war was fought and lives were lost in the name of freedom. It was a very moving experience. The museum also has a large collection of photographs, weapons and other war memorabilia which contributed to making the war feel “real” to me.

Remnants of the War: trenches

Commonwealth (Canadian)
Sanctuary Wood
Cemetery

Just down the hill from the memorial lies the Commonwealth Sanctuary Wood Cemetery that is the final resting place for 636 Canadian soldiers. This cemetery is just one of many that dot the Belgian countryside. In fact, we spotted several others during yesterday’s drive. With their white marble stones and immaculately manicured green lawns, they are a distinctive sight that makes the number of young lives lost a reality.

But for me, the highlight of the day was attending the Memorial Day Ceremony at the Flanders Field American Cemetery.  With 368 graves the cemetery is small by most standards but it is the only American World War I cemetery located in Belgium. Like its nearby Canadian cemetery and the other military cemeteries across the continent and the world, this final resting place is well cared for and even when filled with people, felt tranquil and serene. (There really is something about cemeteries that makes speaking in more than a whisper simply feel wrong).

I have attended the annual Memorial Day ceremony at Arlington National Cemetery but this one felt different for so many reasons. Hosted by the American Overseas Memorial Day Association of Belgium, this event was much smaller than the one back in Virginia yet for me it felt more poignant. The ceremony itself was short on speeches and long on ceremony. Perhaps it is because the ceremony has been held annually since 1923 or that the audience was comprised of just as many (if not more) Belgians as Americans. Attendees also included the family members of several soldiers buried in the cemetery as well as veterans of World War II. It was attended by a representative of the King of Belgium, SACEUR and the Charge d’Affaires from the U.S. Embassy in Brussels. American Boy Scouts passed out programs and served as ushers while the military honor guard served as the color bearers.  Dignitaries laid a number of wreaths in honor of the fallen. The sound of the Belgian school children singing the American anthem and waving both American and Belgian flags, just as they have every year since 1923, brought tears to my eyes.

Sitting on a grassy embankment and taking all of this in made me feel proud. Proud, thoughtful and reflective. We did our best to explain what was going to happen ahead of time but the significance of the ceremony was most likely lost on Sidney. None the less sat by our sides and someday he will understand what he was a part of. Since 2014 is the centennial year for the onset of World War I it felt especially important to be here and literally being a part of history.

 

Flanders Field American Cemetery

These commemorations take place across Belgium each Memorial Day weekend. This is the first one we have had the opportunity to attend but I can say with certainty that we will be attending more in future years. So if you are in Belgium over Memorial Day weekend, you too can attend one of these ceremonies. More information on this and future ceremonies can be found here.  You can also visit the cemetery and other World War I battle sites during the rest of the year. A visit is sure to be memorable. 

Hello Summer

Just as it does every year, summer has snuck up on me again. Sure, summer may not officially begin until the 21st of June but for most Americans, this weekend marks the unofficial start of summer. Each year, I spend the winter and spring longing for summer and then all of a sudden it is here. But this year, it feels like it really did pop up out of no where. Perhaps it is because Sidney's Belgian school and Glenn's NATO command are both open on Monday meaning there won't be a long weekend for us. Sheltered from the mass consumerism that surrounds all American holidays, I haven't been hearing commercials and receiving flyers for must have holiday weekend sales. And the weather? Well, we are in Belgium so the weather is anything but summery. Accustomed to the hot Balkan springs I've been downright cold here. We did have a tease of warmer and sunnier weather earlier this week but we have now returned to the cool and cloudy forecasts that I think of as Belgian weather. Nothing about the temperatures are making me think about beaches, picnics, and flip flops.

But, despite it all, sun or no sun, summer is here. So how are we going to make the best of it? We have a full summer of activities planned. We'll get our dose of heat and humidity during our visit back to the East Coast; we'll explore more history during long weekend trips throughout Western Europe, and we'll explore the best of what Belgium has to offer. And like true Belgians, we'll be ready to go rain or shine, heat or no heat. After all you can't let a little weather stop you.

But first up is a weekend cookout for new friends. With hamburgers, barbecue chicken, and all of the traditional sides, what is more American? And while the weather says the sun will shine we'll be ready with umbrellas just in case. (Because we are in Belgium after all.....).

So here's to a long, safe, and fun filled summer.