The Battle For Mons

Today marks the 101st anniversary of the Battle of Mons. This relatively unknown but important battle marked the onset of clashes between the British and German forces during World War I. At the time Belgium was neutral but geographically stood between the German and British troops. And although Britain had officially declared war on Germany on 4 August, it was here in Mons on 23 August that the two armies met as the British attempted to fend off the advancing Germans over possession of the Mons-Conde Canal. (The first British casualty of the War had actually occurred two days earlier when a British reconnaissance team encountered a German unit and Private John Parr was killed).

The British were ultimately forced to retreat from this battle but eventually went on to be on the winning side of that war. A century later Belgians remember the course of events that changed history. They also love a good celebration and as such, commemorations recognizing this centennial anniversary have been taking place for the past few weeks throughout the Mons area. The first event was a commemoration ceremony recognizing Britain's declaration of war on Germany. It was held at  St Symphorien, the British military cemetery here in Mons on 4 August.  Wills and Kate (a.k.a. Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge) along with Prince Harry attended as did throngs of Belgian officials. Other events have included parades, wreath laying ceremonies, concerts and even a double decker bus tour of all of the World War I sites here in Mons. There have been nightly light show depicting the Angels of Mons who are have said to safely escorted the retreating British troops back to France.

Speeches and wreath laying events are a big part of the ceremonial aspect of the commemorations but my favorite part has been the reenactments. Or as Sidney says, all of the military people (and their horses and bicycles too). For the past few days the Belfry Park here in Mons has been turned into a period British encampment complete with soldiers and their artillery, horses and bicycles, and a mess and a hospital tent. Earlier this morning we ventured out to explore the encampment which is literally around the corner from us. It was great fun to walk amongst the tents and piles of equipment talking to the soldiers and watching as they went about their daily camp activities. Two man tents constructed of two snapped together raincoats provided shelter, if not comfort, from the elements. The pile of backpacks ladened down with the afore mentioned raincoats, a blanket, a canteen and a few other meager personal items reminded us of the simple conditions under which soldiers lived in the field. The mess (a.k.a. kitchen) made me grateful for the food we do have now; the tins of canned meat and vegetables neither looked nor smelled appetizing yet soldiers were hungrily spooning up the mixture from their metal bowls. And the hospital tent with its rudimentary medical equipment certainly didn't look all that comforting.

But this camp is a reenactment of the realities of the time. The times weren't pretty--it was war after all-- and by history coming alive through these scenes we are reminded of all of this. It should make us grateful for what we have and for the sacrifices that those before us made so we can enjoy the freedoms we have. And it did just that. This may have been our first World War I reenactment we've visited but I'm sure it won't be our last.

World War I encampment

Soldier on horseback in Grand Place Mons

A Respite From The Battlefield: Tea At The Talbot House

Children receive their own
tablet to guide them through
the grounds

War is ugly. Regardless of the era, fighting day in and day out is a grueling proposition that quickly takes its toll on the soldiers in the field. Any respite from the fighting is welcome and during the bloody days of World War I, the Talbot House served as just such a refuge for British soldiers on the front line. The Belgian front, and the area called Flanders Field, saw some of the worst fighting during the War but the tiny town of Poperinge, located hear the French border in the far western reaches of Belgium, escaped relatively unscathed. Although it is adjacent to Ypres, Poperinge was part of the unoccupied region of Belgium and thus served as the hub for British forces. And within this pocket of calm sat, and still sits, the Talbot House, a refuge that is referred to as "Every man's house".

Militaries are perhaps one of the last bastions where rank clearly matters; the division between the enlisted and the officers is set in stone with fraternization between the ranks discouraged if not outright prohibited. Traditionally each group has their own pay scales, housing and social clubs.The Talbot House, however, broke with this tradition and served as a respite for all soldiers, regardless of rank, thus getting its moniker.

The Talbot House was built in the 18th Century and was the home of a wealthy banking family before it was hit by a German shell, forcing the family to flee to a safer location. The British army rented the house as an alternative to more controversial respite sites in the town. Talbot House as it is known today was founded in 1915 by two Army chaplains, who for the next three years welcomed soldiers into their little piece of calm between the storms. They set about creating a homey atmosphere, complete with a tranquil garden, lounging spaces, a spacious dining hall and clean sleeping quarters in which soldiers could relax.

Sampling the tea. The verdict?
Delicious!

Today visitors are welcome to explore the exhibits, grounds and partake in the English tradition of tea in what is the original mess hall. The museum is not large but it is filled with interesting and moving displays that provide visitors with a glimpse of what life was like for soldiers enjoying a brief R&R. And this museum welcomes the youngest guests with their own electronic tablet that guides them through the grounds on a type of scavenger hunt. You can look through numerous photographs, documents and relics from the war and visit the former bath house which now hosts temporary exhibits. During our visit we saw an exhibit paying tribute to military chaplains, both allies and foes, from the Great War to today's ongoing fighting in the Middle East. And every guest is invited to sit in the dining hall and partake in a cup of tea served by the jolly hosts. In true British form, the tea is steeped from loose leaves and served in china cups around communal tables. After tea you can take in the ornate details of the sitting rooms then climb the very steep stairs to see the sleeping quarters and the top floor chapel. (A small number of rooms are available for overnight accommodations although a peek into them revealed rather narrow and uncomfortable looking beds). But my favorite part of the museum is without doubt, the garden. Small but well laid out, the garden has  water features, benches and lots of shaded grassy spaces that invite relaxation and meditation. It is easy to imagine soldiers sitting and laying in the walled garden and momentarily trying to forget about the outside world. And had it not been for the rain, we too would have sat in the garden to contemplate.

So when you are in this corner of Belgium take time to visit the Talbot House. It is a tribute to war unlike any war museum I have visited. Stroll the gardens, explore the house and enjoy a cup of tea. If you are of British heritage, or know someone who is, search through the database to see if your relatives were one of the thousands who sought refuge there during the War.

If you go:
The Talbot House
Gasthuisstraat 431-B 8970
Poperinge, BELGIUM
+32 57 333 228
info@talbothouse.be
www.talbothouse.be

Open Tuesday-Sunday 10.00-17.30
Adults 8 Euro, under 7 FREE

The Battle of Mons

Today marks the 100th anniversary of the Battle of Mons. This relatively unknown but important battle marked the onset of clashes between the British and German forces during World War I. At the time Belgium was neutral but geographically stood between the German and British troops. And although Britain had officially declared war on Germany on 4 August, it was here in Mons on 23 August that the two armies met as the British attempted to fend off the advancing Germans over possession of the Mons-Conde Canal. (The first British casualty of the War had actually occurred two days earlier when a British reconnaissance team encountered a German unit and Private John Parr was killed).

The British were ultimately forced to retreat from this battle but eventually went on to be on the winning side of that war. A century later Belgians remember the course of events that changed history. They also love a good celebration and as such, commemorations recognizing this centennial anniversary have been taking place for the past few weeks throughout the Mons area. The first event was a commemoration ceremony recognizing Britain's declaration of war on Germany. It was held at  St Symphorien, the British military cemetery here in Mons on 4 August.  Wills and Kate (a.k.a. Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge) along with Prince Harry attended as did throngs of Belgian officials. Other events have included parades, wreath laying ceremonies, concerts and even a double decker bus tour of all of the World War I sites here in Mons. There have been nightly light show depicting the Angels of Mons who are have said to safely escorted the retreating British troops back to France.

Speeches and wreath laying events are a big part of the ceremonial aspect of the commemorations but my favorite part has been the reenactments. Or as Sidney says, all of the military people (and their horses and bicycles too). For the past few days the Belfry Park here in Mons has been turned into a period British encampment complete with soldiers and their artillery, horses and bicycles, and a mess and a hospital tent. Earlier this morning we ventured out to explore the encampment which is literally around the corner from us. It was great fun to walk amongst the tents and piles of equipment talking to the soldiers and watching as they went about their daily camp activities. Two man tents constructed of two snapped together raincoats provided shelter, if not comfort, from the elements. The pile of backpacks ladened down with the afore mentioned raincoats, a blanket, a canteen and a few other meager personal items reminded us of the simple conditions under which soldiers lived in the field. The mess (a.k.a. kitchen) made me grateful for the food we do have now; the tins of canned meat and vegetables neither looked nor smelled appetizing yet soldiers were hungrily spooning up the mixture from their metal bowls. And the hospital tent with its rudimentary medical equipment certainly didn't look all that comforting.

But this camp is a reenactment of the realities of the time. The times weren't pretty--it was war after all-- and by history coming alive through these scenes we are reminded of all of this. It should make us grateful for what we have and for the sacrifices that those before us made so we can enjoy the freedoms we have. And it did just that. This may have been our first World War I reenactment we've visited but I'm sure it won't be our last.

World War I encampment

Soldier on horseback in Grand Place Mons

Memorial Day On Flanders Field

For too many Americans Memorial Day is simply an extra day off from work. Ironically enough, schools and work are open here today but that doesn’t make the day any less significant for us. But because we wouldn’t be able to attend any Memorial Day celebrations today, we recognized the day yesterday through exploring the World War I battlefields of Ypres and then attending a ceremony at the Flanders Field American Cemetery in Waregem, Belgium. It was an emotional, moving, and historic way to spend such an important day. I’ll admit that while I am pretty well versed in World War II history, I don’t know nearly as much about World War I as I should. So this was a driving force in our heading to the battlefields from the Great War.

We started off by visiting the Canadian Hill 62 Sanctuary Wood memorial. On a cool Sunday morning we practically had the site to ourselves. Both the memorial and the nearby Sanctuary Wood Cemetery were eerily quiet as though they were reflecting the solemn nature of what had taken place here just one short century ago. Yes, it is so easy to forget that all of this carnage took place such a short time ago. In 1916 Canadian forces recaptured and held the area from the German forces. Because the hill is on higher ground, the Canadian occupation denied the German army a view of the nearby town of Ypres. At the nearby Sanctuary Wood Museum we tromped through the muddy twists and turns of some of the few remaining World War I trenches in Belgium. I never realized quite how many twists and turns they had until I stood above them looking down. Sidney and Glenn explored the dark and muddy tunnel and I simply marveled at the fact that we were literally standing on a battlefield where not so long ago war was fought and lives were lost in the name of freedom. It was a very moving experience. The museum also has a large collection of photographs, weapons and other war memorabilia which contributed to making the war feel “real” to me.

Remnants of the War: trenches

Commonwealth (Canadian)
Sanctuary Wood
Cemetery

Just down the hill from the memorial lies the Commonwealth Sanctuary Wood Cemetery that is the final resting place for 636 Canadian soldiers. This cemetery is just one of many that dot the Belgian countryside. In fact, we spotted several others during yesterday’s drive. With their white marble stones and immaculately manicured green lawns, they are a distinctive sight that makes the number of young lives lost a reality.

But for me, the highlight of the day was attending the Memorial Day Ceremony at the Flanders Field American Cemetery.  With 368 graves the cemetery is small by most standards but it is the only American World War I cemetery located in Belgium. Like its nearby Canadian cemetery and the other military cemeteries across the continent and the world, this final resting place is well cared for and even when filled with people, felt tranquil and serene. (There really is something about cemeteries that makes speaking in more than a whisper simply feel wrong).

I have attended the annual Memorial Day ceremony at Arlington National Cemetery but this one felt different for so many reasons. Hosted by the American Overseas Memorial Day Association of Belgium, this event was much smaller than the one back in Virginia yet for me it felt more poignant. The ceremony itself was short on speeches and long on ceremony. Perhaps it is because the ceremony has been held annually since 1923 or that the audience was comprised of just as many (if not more) Belgians as Americans. Attendees also included the family members of several soldiers buried in the cemetery as well as veterans of World War II. It was attended by a representative of the King of Belgium, SACEUR and the Charge d’Affaires from the U.S. Embassy in Brussels. American Boy Scouts passed out programs and served as ushers while the military honor guard served as the color bearers.  Dignitaries laid a number of wreaths in honor of the fallen. The sound of the Belgian school children singing the American anthem and waving both American and Belgian flags, just as they have every year since 1923, brought tears to my eyes.

Sitting on a grassy embankment and taking all of this in made me feel proud. Proud, thoughtful and reflective. We did our best to explain what was going to happen ahead of time but the significance of the ceremony was most likely lost on Sidney. None the less sat by our sides and someday he will understand what he was a part of. Since 2014 is the centennial year for the onset of World War I it felt especially important to be here and literally being a part of history.

 

Flanders Field American Cemetery

These commemorations take place across Belgium each Memorial Day weekend. This is the first one we have had the opportunity to attend but I can say with certainty that we will be attending more in future years. So if you are in Belgium over Memorial Day weekend, you too can attend one of these ceremonies. More information on this and future ceremonies can be found here.  You can also visit the cemetery and other World War I battle sites during the rest of the year. A visit is sure to be memorable.